Just curious, is there a practical reason one wouldn't just put a case on the floor? Is it just preference? Pets? Carpet vs. hardwood?
Mostly preference / cosmetic reasons. I think the only real practical concern with putting it on the floor is dust, so if you have carpet you at least want to put something under the case so it isn't resting directly on the carpet. One of those small pre-finished wooden shelf pieces from your favorite hardware store works well.
Another practical reason might be if you have a sit/stand desk and you don't want to worry about the cables stretching and moving around as you raise and lower the desk.
My desktop is on my desk just because I have a corner desk and I have a bunch of space in the corner behind the monitors so I just stuck my case back there rather than have it on the floor and worrying about dust, kicking it, cables dangling. With other desks I have always kept it on the floor.
Just curious, is there a practical reason one wouldn't just put a case on the floor?
Dust and heat. The floor is the dustiest part of your home and depending on clearance, thinking full towers here, you could also run into heat issues since you've essentially got a space heater under your desk...
All done.
Fun distraction from the election. Added the 5" monitor to the inside of the case to cover up the PSU mount. Perfect size for this and It's powered off an internal USB header and connected to the onboard GPU.
Definitely recommend this case to anyone that has a big GPU but wants a small-ish form factor. Other than cable management challenges it's really well designed.
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Apparently my way of coping with election stress is to continue to mod my PC case... moved the 5" screen to the front and added a 7" in its place.
MOAR screens!
JC, love the case! I am a huge fan of unique cases. Last year I rebuilt and decided to go with the Azza Sanctum case. I also use SignalRGB to animate all of the colors. I'll have to figure out the video part some other time
So I have a modular PSU that I want to upgrade to a higher wattage. Can I just literally swap out the existing PSU with another one, without having to use all new cables, if the PSU is in the same exact model line?
Essentially going for a 750W to 850W PSU.
Yes but no. Make sure 100% that they are the same cables. Sometimes manufacturers do change them.
So I have a modular PSU that I want to upgrade to a higher wattage. Can I just literally swap out the existing PSU with another one, without having to use all new cables, if the PSU is in the same exact model line?
Essentially going for a 750W to 850W PSU.
I would say swap no matter what. You can fry your computer that way.
I swapped up this summer. I made sure the cables were all the same then unplugged the cables from the old, uninstalled it, installed the new one and re-plugged. One of the easier computer upgrades I've ever done.
Crawley wrote:So I have a modular PSU that I want to upgrade to a higher wattage. Can I just literally swap out the existing PSU with another one, without having to use all new cables, if the PSU is in the same exact model line?
Essentially going for a 750W to 850W PSU.
I would say swap no matter what. You can fry your computer that way.
Definitely swap. Even within a brand/model line the manufacturer can change between wattage levels. IIRC, one of Corsair's more popular lines (CX?) changes manufacturers for <=750W and >=850W.
Modular cable pinouts are not standardized and DO vary across manufacturers and even within a manufacturer's lines.
It *might* be ok, but you are rolling some pretty expensive dice.
I always make sure the new cpu comes with new cables. Preferably the modular ones where you can remove the ones you don't need. Problem solved, and you can then give away the older one if it still works well.
I was trying to make it possibly work with my answer but i agree with the positions made. I change my answer to swap them out too. Not worth the risk.
I'm debating getting a PC upgrade. Last time I just piggy backed off a Tom's Hardware build with some small changes, so I'm looking at https://www.tomshardware.com/best-pi...
Component Type Model Price (at Pub Time in USD)
CPU AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3D $569
Motherboard Gigabyte B650M Gaming Plus WiFi $139
GPU Nvidia RTX 4070 Ti Super $799
RAM G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5 6000 $92
Storage WD Black SN850X (2TB) $149
Case Hyte Y40 $129
PSU Corsair RM750e $99
Cooler Iceberg Thermal IceFLOE Oasis 360mm $89
Total: Row 8 - Cell 1 $2,065
Should I make effort to avoid Newegg? I've heard various stories about their service over the years. Is there a preferred retailer aside from Amazon?
Is Windows 11 the "standard" for PC gaming? I'm still on Win 10
Are water CPU coolers hard to install? Only installed fan based ones in past
If I put in 2 more storage drives, do I have to get a stronger power core? Basically a second storage HDD and my old computer SSD (I'm pretty sure a mid sized case can accommodate the size)
Regarding motherboard - website says "Gigabyte B650M Gaming Plus WiFi which is one of the more affordable AM5 motherboards you can buy but it still packs in Wi-Fi 6E radio" . What's the Wifi for, just convenience in updating things without a cable connection? Maybe a dumb question but why does the tier down $1500 computer build have a more expensive motherboard (Gigabyte Z790 Gaming X AX). I would have expected everything to rise a bit as the build price goes up
In general, does every component that create colored light, can I turn them off or do I need to look up each part one by one?
Anyone have a recommendation for a mid-sized case that has all the "features" a case is supposed to have, but is the opposite of the lighting thing (no see thru panels).
Is it me or do cases also seem a bit wider than years ago? Is it cause graphics cards look like mini boulders now?
If you're using it only or mostly for gaming, get the 7800x3D or if you can find it in stock at its $480 MSRP, the 9800x3D.
I believe Newegg is ok as long as you confirm the seller is Newegg and not a 3rd party vendor.
Get Windows 11. 10 will not get security updates starting next year.
Water coolers not hard to install. Just make sure the size is compatible with the case.
Power only matters for CPU and gpu. SSD's power requirements are tiny.
The tier down has a much cheaper CPU that can be over locked, so I think they wanted to pair it with a motherboard that will reliably over lock.
Not sure about the colored lighting, but usually is can be turned off or just set to a single color.
For cases, check out the Fractal North, which Gamers Nexus named case of the year. I believe it has a mesh side panel option which would mostly hide the lighting.
Closed circuit water cooling is no harder to install than a fan system, really. I always have a bit of trouble with the attachment to the cpu bracket either way, but once that is on, it's just installing the fan and stowing the flexible tubes. I recommend it. All of the systems in our family are water cooled (well, not the laptops).
Windows 11... Bear in mind that Microsoft has been an Agile Dev/Sec/Ops shop for years. They updated 10 at periodic intervals, and then they pushed a particularly comprehensive update and called it Windows 11. It's more secure, more performant, and as noted, Win 10 is about to be deprecated. Have no fear of it. That's another thing I've been running for years. This is the way OSes are delivered today; there's no more bright line between major releases, just a decision that there have been enough updates to warrant a name change.
Really, they could run on 11 for a decade or so if they wanted to keep the name. But they probably won't for marketing reasons.
So in this day and age what is the best method of nabbing a new video card?
I would like to get 5070 TI when it comes out at the beginning of the year. I know that's going to be almost impossible to find in brick-and-mortar stores and likely difficult to find online at retail price. So what's the methodology to increase my chances of getting one when these are released without getting price gouged?
I was able to avoid this whole hassle the last two generations as my wife and I needed new computers so just added the GPU I wanted in both. But that's not an option this time.
Why? They are going to be $800 MSRP...
Such a waste and overkill. I really don't think you need anything stronger than a 6800. Why spend so much when you can use DLSS/FSR for 4K ray tracing on a $400-450 gpu?
Also, don't know if this is a price error or not but seems like a steal:
7900XT for $440
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNLT17XQ...
Why? They are going to be $800 MSRP...
Such a waste and overkill. I really don't think you need anything stronger than a 6800. Why spend so much when you can use DLSS/FSR for 4K ray tracing on a $400-450 gpu?
Also, don't know if this is a price error or not but seems like a steal:
7900XT for $440
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNLT17XQ...
not really the place to question why people want what they want... And all you have to do is look at the vendor of that 7900XT to know it's a fake listing.
Thanks Mao.
Yeah, I know what I want. Just looking for advice on how to accomplish that when this card is released. Not interested in suggestions on other video cards.
Offer one of the folks in blue $50 to hold one under the counter for you and call you when it comes in to the local store.
The best luck I've had with GPUs released during periods of high demand is BestBuy.com. Their queue system slows down bots and keeps them from immediately wiping out inventory. It's definitely still a pain and requires lots of page refreshing and jumping on restocks as soon as they happen, but it gives you a better chance than a lot of other sellers that just let bots gobble up everything the instant the restock gets posted.
Was suspecting something along this line where I'd have to keep checking stock. But it is good to hear Best Buy might be the best place to get it as I can use the BB card for rewards.
I know there's a few web pages that monitor when companies get stock in. What one(s) are recommended?
Offer one of the folks in blue $50 to hold one under the counter for you and call you when it comes in to the local store.
If I knew someone there then maybe but no way otherwise.
Why not? Pay on delivery, not up front.
I ended up slightly modifying my build based on more online research and what was said above:
CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
Motherboard MSI PRO B650-P
GPU GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 4080
CPU Cooler Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 EVO
RAM G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo RGB DDR5 RAM 32GB
Case Fractal Design Meshify C Black
HDD Acer Predator GM7000 2 TB SSD
Power Corsair RM750e
I think I prefer a standard air cooler, however is there any issue with everything fitting? I read some reviews said they had issue installing it - not sure if it has to do with their motherboard size or something.
Don't plan on adding anything except my existing computer hard drives (SSD + HDD)
PC Part picker is usually pretty good at identifying if something won't fit.
Ah ok - the case I selected is no good
Problem: The Gigabyte WINDFORCE V2 GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card length of 330mm exceeds the Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case maximum of 315mm.
My backup gives me a disclaimer
Note: The Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case supports video cards up to 355mm long, but video cards over 300mm may block drive bays. Since the Gigabyte WINDFORCE V2 GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB Video Card is 330mm long, some drive bays may not be usable. The Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case hard drive bays are positioned where some of the bays may be physically blocked when using longer video cards.
Amazon listing says "Choose a GPU up to 355 mm, or up to 300 mm with a 360 mm front radiator ", so it sounds like if I don't add a radiator I'll be fine?
Fractal Design Meshify C allows for up to 335mm, you just won't be able to run a fan in the front. Manual page 19
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