pandasuit wrote:Anyone here managed to get Steam Deck to turn on HDR mode when connected to a HDR external display?
Didn't they just put out an update for the Dock that explicitly enables this?
They put out a SteamOS update for it. Not sure about the official Dock as I don't have one.
None of my docks explicitly say they support HDR. Looks like some USB-C to HDMI 2.1 docks do mention HDR support.
Edit:
If someone has managed to get this to work I'm curious what hardware they used. The official Dock specs don't mention HDR support. It seems likely Valve would make that work if they could.
The fact that the official Dock has a DP 1.4 port is compelling. I've been playing Rocket League with the Deck docked but the display I'm using only supports it's full refresh rate and VRR over DP, not HDMI. I can get 120hz without VRR to work over HDMI with my current docks which is not terrible. But still no HDR. If the official Dock gets me high refresh, VRR, and HDR then I might go that direction. If it doesn't get me HDR then I'll keep looking for another option that does.
UGREEN has a USB-C dock that claims to support 4k@120hz + HDR10 (+ 8k@30hz but who cares) but I'm not assuming that will work perfectly with the Deck. Might buy it through Prime and if it doesn't do what I want return it.
I ordered the OLED one too. Might look into that case as the official one is pretty bulky.
As far as cases go, it's not cheap but I heartily recommend the dBrand Killswitch case system. If feels super secure from all angles
I also finally wised up and ordered a much slimmer hard case for the Deck, after suffering the original case being such a space-eater in my backpack when traveling.
Might look into that case as the official one is pretty bulky.
Not sure if you saw this, but they did upgrade the case for the OLED as well (with the 1tb models). It now has a smaller, more compact version that removes for easier travel.
I have that tomtoc case, and I love it, highly recommended. I like Valves new inner case idea, but concerned that it could be a dust/lint magnet.
So as a random aside. The Steam controller is a good stop gap solution for non valve based pc handhelds.
Steam Deck OLED Plays Better Than Steam Deck LCD: Big Input Lag Reductions
120hz would have been nice but 90hz is a welcome improvement <3
90hz panel was definitely a big factor in me deciding to upgrade. The Deck is the only 60hz panel I game on. Not much longer!
I did see from the Taki Udon video below that OLED Deck users will likely want to set Retroarch to use 60hz in order to fix some wild frame time behavior in 60fps emulated content, something to keep in mind:
I put in an order for the Limited Edition OLED Deck. The sum of the improvements were enough for me to bite the bullet. I'm sure I'll be able to find someone to buy my 1TB LCD Deck.
I also finally wised up and ordered a much slimmer hard case for the Deck, after suffering the original case being such a space-eater in my backpack when traveling. Wish I had thought of it a couple months ago.
Hang on, isn't that what the OLED's removable liner is for?
*Legion* wrote:I put in an order for the Limited Edition OLED Deck. The sum of the improvements were enough for me to bite the bullet. I'm sure I'll be able to find someone to buy my 1TB LCD Deck.
I also finally wised up and ordered a much slimmer hard case for the Deck, after suffering the original case being such a space-eater in my backpack when traveling. Wish I had thought of it a couple months ago.
Hang on, isn't that what the OLED's removable liner is for?
I was going to ask that very thing.
As to the dock questions, don't forget good USBC hubs will do the same thing as the various docks if you want to open up your search.
I use the jsaux case, not slim but has great storage, I can fit a full size battery pack plus earphones and a cable in it no problem. Or if I'm going for a long trip I can. Swap the battery pack for the charging cable with room to spare.
Don't think I'm gonna upgrade, thinking about my usage (mainly indie or older games and either an hour or 2 when I'm waiting for my kid at a lesson or at my parents or in laws while people are doing stuff I don't want to do) it just isn't worth the cash for me right now. I think in few years when the battery starts to go I'll probably give my current deck to my kid (replace the battery for them naturally) and either get the new one on sale or wait for a mk 3.
Hang on, isn't that what the OLED's removable liner is for?
The removed liner has exposed velcro when it’s out. Also it has no handle strap. It’s a cool bonus feature but not what I want from a travel case.
People buying the new OLEDs. Where is the best/easiest place to sell your old Decks?
I think right now the best option would be: to a friend, for a steep discount.
When I checked eBay/Facebook Marketplace the prices current sellers are trying to get are pure fantasy. People are trying to get as much for their used LCD as a new OLED costs. And to stand out from the $349.00 (64GB)/$399.00 (256GB)/$449.00 (512GB) prices for brand new LCD Decks direct from Valve you'd have to mark it down drastically, and with something like eBay, they'll take their cut too.
If you were willing to take enough of a haircut, maybe you could get in under the current rush. But currently price seems like it'll define easiest more than any specific site.
I'm going to hang on to mine for now, and maybe the rush of listings will settle down eventually.
OLED does feel lighter. Not sure how noticeable it would be if you're not comparing them side-by-side, or if it's significant enough to affect how comfortable holding it for a long session will be.
The hand rest spots have a texture to them now.
Replacing the SSD is as straightforward as the LCD. The one exception I'd add is that the shield has a small cable taped to the edge:
If you aren't paying attention and tried to pry off the shield like you do with the LCD (on the LCD version once you remove the screws it just comes off completely) you might yank/damage that cable. So pry off that little piece of tape first.
The shield has a ribbon running across the top, so you probably won't yank it out anyway, but just in case.
Same as the LCD Deck, you can snap your SD card if you don't remove it first. That part of the design hasn't changed.
OLED uses Torx screws instead of Phillips, and they're all the same length (LCD half are longer than the rest).
The SSD in the OLED is a Kingston 3.3v 1a, if folks are curious about shopping around for a larger one. A lot of the SSDs in this size are 3.3v 2.5a or 3.5a, I'm not sure how that might affect battery life (or if it would at all). The Xbox Series X SSD that I'm using is 3.3v 1.1a.
This seems to be the exact SSD that was in my OLED, in case that helps:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-512GB-3-0x4-Solid-OM3PDP3512B-A01/dp/B0BW7V8ZZ3
Once I swapped in the SSD from my LCD Deck, it prompted me for a firmware update then I was good to go.
My biggest concern with opening up the limited edition OLED once it arrives is not scraping away any of the orange on the screw heads of the back screws:
Use a rubber band in between the screw and the driver.
good advice for computer screws in general and torx in particular.
I would assume they're anodized and should be OK if you're careful and don't let the driver slip.
The orange looks so cool I’m seriously contemplating painting my original deck’s screws with nail polish.
They should’ve done orange on the left and blue on the right. Thumbsticks especially.
I just found out that the failed Google Stadia controllers can be converted to bluetooth. Now I have another Steam Deck controller for when I dock and I don't have to grab my only newer Xbox controller from my PC.
I got a Stadia controller for free or really cheap with one of the older Chromecasts, and it's been in my attic for a couple of years. Nice to have a use for it.
I just found out that the failed Google Stadia controllers can be converted to bluetooth.
Only until the end of December 2023 per the site. I do agree it's a great controller!
Middle-Earth: Shadow of Mordor looks great and plays great on default settings, and to my untrained human eye, does not look or play any less great when I allow screen tearing and lock the frame rate at 30 which more than doubles my estimated battery life to almost 5 hours.
That is all.
My LE OLED Deck arrived today. Swapped in my existing SSD and everything came up, with one unexpected catch: no wifi or audio in my Windows dual boot. Checked the Steam page for driver updates and saw that wifi, Bluetooth, and audio drivers are not yet released for the OLED Deck hardware. Something to be aware of for the dual-booters.
I used the rubber band trick when first loosening the screws, and again when doing the final tightening. The orange remains intact on all 8 screws.
The translucent limited editon case came in handy in an unexpected way: seeing where my little iFixIt opening pick fell inside:
I’ve been playing Descent on my Deck lately, via DXX-Rebirth installed through Luxtorpeda, and it took about 3 seconds of firing up Descent on the OLED to convince me of the OLED screen’s merits. Between the 90hz, the bigger screen size (that 0.4” is more substantial than you’d think), and the amazing motion clarity, it was a completely new game. I would have Day 1 ordered the OLED if I realized just how much difference it made.
Also, every reviewer who said the small amount of weight reductions noticeable was right. A 5% decrease in weight seems almost negligible, but it might be due to a change in the distribution or something, because it feels more like 15-20%.
Also, every reviewer who said the small amount of weight reductions noticeable was right. A 5% decrease in weight seems almost negligible, but it might be due to a change in the distribution or something, because it feels more like 15-20%.
Is it weird that I like the heft of the original model? I picked up my Switch last month for the first time since the Deck came out and I was worried about snapping it in half.
You’d still find the OLED Deck to be hefty compared to a Switch. It’s not nearly that much difference. But for someone used to holding a Deck, the difference is noticeable.
I also finally wised up and ordered a much slimmer hard case for the Deck, after suffering the original case being such a space-eater in my backpack when traveling. Wish I had thought of it a couple months ago.
"Carrying case compatible with Steam Deck" is such a weird way to tiptoe around trademark violations but that looks really convenient. I was got back from a trip with my Deck and the case really does take a lot of space in my backpack.
Speaking of intellectual property, the whole JerryRigEverything controversy has me looking at Steam Deck dbrand skins. Do people here have experience with those? How difficult are they to apply? Do they create any issues with temperature or grip or anything else?
What’s funny is that they make the case “compatible” with the Switch also, by way of including some additional velcro-attached inserts. Don’t know why anyone would buy this case for a Switch rather than one that’s actually form-fitting, but as a Deck case, I’m quite happy with it.
The Steam Deck regular case is a beast, but I've started putting my XPS 13's power adapter in the cavity on the back and that helps offset it a bit.
I usually travel with a laptop and my deck, so I'll be bringing the adapter anyway. You could potentially fit a smaller adapter and some USB cables in there instead.
A slim case would definitely be a bit more flexible in how I arrange my bag, but at least that extra bulk isn't totally a waste.
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