Help me build my PC 2020 Catch All

Consider how difficult warranty service will be if the brand is not mainstream.

Middcore wrote:

"Mini" cards do not use more power, but they will be hotter and noisier.

Or they will simply less aggressively boost in order to keep from hitting those higher temperatures and fan speeds. (Or some halfway point between those two extremes)

Malor wrote:

Oh,that's very clever. I wish I'd thought of it. The distributor was kinda blaming me for the number of bad Tyan boards we were returning, so it's nice to get some feedback that it wasn't just me. (and maybe it was my fault for not troubleshooting better, because it sounds like you rescued more boards than I did.)

Seems like that trick might still be useful, although it would impede airflow. Do we know if modern motherboards do any real cooling from the underside? I don't *think* they do, but I'm not very current anymore on computer hardware.

I'm sure some do, but back in the day if you were using a single 3dfx card you were cutting edge, so airflow wasn't as critical

Quick update: I had a stroke of good fortune and a buddy gave me his used GTX 1060 6GB. Took my budget and put it towards a Ryzen 5 2600, mobo, ram, and a M.2 drive. Managed to cram it all in my old case (the GPU is massive) and now have a machine that will last me the foreseeable future.

Yay! That's going to be a long-lasting combo! Hope it works well for you.

Math wrote:

Quick update: I had a stroke of good fortune and a buddy gave me his used GTX 1060 6GB. Took my budget and put it towards a Ryzen 5 2600, mobo, ram, and a M.2 drive. Managed to cram it all in my old case (the GPU is massive) and now have a machine that will last me the foreseeable future. :)

I have close to the same combination and love it. Congrats!

Scroll wheel on my mouse (Razer Deathadder) has started to squeak - is spray silicon lube the answer?

I'd be cautious with anything conductive.

Robear wrote:

I'd be cautious with anything conductive.

It says "High Dielectric Strength" on the can of silicone spray?

That said, a lot of compressed air might have fixed it - it's stopped squeaking for now...

Well, then... It's probably reasonable for electrical components. I've seen similar sprays admixed with oils, Teflon and other stuff that I'm not sure would do the trick without sparks. That's why I mentioned it.

Anybody have any suggestions for the below? Monitor would be existing, same for M&K.

Parts list link

Component Selection Price
CPU

AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor $219.00
Motherboard

MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard $189.99
Memory

Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $194.99
Storage

Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $175.25
Video Card

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING OC Video Card $398.95
Case

Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG ATX Mid Tower Case $149.99
Power Supply

SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $113.95
Operating System

Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $134.50
Total: $1576.62

Go with a Ryzen 3000 series over the 2000 series.. drop the ram to 16GB and jump into a RTX GPU with the savings. That SSD seems hella expensive.. I've seen M.2 SSD for under $100 for a 1TB.. Get one of those and those savings will help with the better GPU.

TheGameguru wrote:

Go with a Ryzen 3000 series over the 2000 series.. drop the ram to 16GB and jump into a RTX GPU with the savings. That SSD seems hella expensive.. I've seen M.2 SSD for under $100 for a 1TB.. Get one of those and those savings will help with the better GPU.

Those are Canadian dollaridoos, so I don't think you'll find a 1TB M.2 SSD under $100CA. Actually can't find a reputable 1TB NVMe SSD under that price. Our northern friends have it rough.

Haven't found a 1TB SSD for sub-100 Euro's either, but prices have been dropping enough that I'm considering one. I already have a 512GB M2.SSD as a boot drive + 500GB SSD game drive. But install sizes keep creeping upwards, and the difference in loading times is too significant to pass up.

I agree about the RAM, 16GB is more than enough unless you are doing VMs or something. I am not sure on the case price, it seems high but that could just be Canadian conversion.

Can you carry over the Windows license you have on your existing machine?

LeapingGnome wrote:

I agree about the RAM, 16GB is more than enough unless you are doing VMs or something. I am not sure on the case price, it seems high but that could just be Canadian conversion.

Can you carry over the Windows license you have on your existing machine?

Excellent question, probably I can. It's for my ex-wife, so there's things I'll need to verify before telling her to pull the trigger

Thanks all!

IMAGE(https://i.redd.it/y3p0m63lc9t31.jpg)

Dakuna wrote:
LeapingGnome wrote:

I agree about the RAM, 16GB is more than enough unless you are doing VMs or something. I am not sure on the case price, it seems high but that could just be Canadian conversion.

Can you carry over the Windows license you have on your existing machine?

Excellent question, probably I can. It's for my ex-wife, so there's things I'll need to verify before telling her to pull the trigger

Thanks all!

You probably can, yes. Even an OEM license, which is technically not transferable, can usually be unlocked through a phone call with Microsoft - if you tell them you upgraded your graphics card only or something.

HERE's a guide on doing a clean install from a license key you might have upgraded during the free upgrade period from Win 7 or Win 8.

I thought the OEM license got tied to the motherboard, and basically followed the motherboard so you can upgrade basically everything else BUT the mobo.

How are Surface Pros these days? Any quality competing products that are better deals?
I find myself in need of a laptop with touch screen or pen that has good performance but I don't really need a desktop replacement. (I'd replace my desktop if I need a desktop replacement) I need something to write and draw and browse the web on that is convenient to carry but with a 13" or bigger screen. Hopefully it is less than $1000 too. (much less preferably)

The last time I delved into Surface Pros, it was the Surface Pro 3 so I know at lot has hopefully changed in performance and price since then.

Dell Inspiron 2-in-1 laptops are in that price range, even the 7000's (the high end).

Citizen86 wrote:

I thought the OEM license got tied to the motherboard, and basically followed the motherboard so you can upgrade basically everything else BUT the mobo.

Strictly speaking yes. And in an enterprise environment Microsoft would definitely hold you to it. For consumers they don't care as much.

I bought a Windows 7 OEM license when I built my first PC at the end of 2010. I have used it on 5 different motherboards, including two systems currently running Windows 10.

Middcore wrote:

I bought a Windows 7 OEM license when I built my first PC at the end of 2010. I have used it on 5 different motherboards, including two systems currently running Windows 10.

Wow that's crazy. And here I've been spending $12-15 online for OEM keys for every system I've built like a chump. It seemed pretty clear it was very tied to the motherboard...

I'm wondering if I might get some feedback on a CPU upgrade I'm thinking of putting together for 4-year-old build? Aiming for under $500.

Thinking to go with AMD Ryzer so I'll swap out the ATX motherboard, CPU, and RAM. Looks like my existing water cooler is compatible.

Parts Picker List

- AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor (~$190)
- MSI MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (~$205)
- Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (~$65)
Total: ~$460

Thank you in advance!

What will you be doing Godzilla? If you're mostly gaming, you'd probably be good with a 3600 or 3600x. Also, you could save $100 by going with a B450 board, especially one that is already ready for Ryzen 3000 series. Not sure if you need any features on X570.

I agree I think you can save a bit of money on the motherboard unless you have a specific 570 need.

If you plan on upgrading to a 3x00 I'd stick with the X570. B450s are still having issues for some people with the 3 series. For gaming, the 3600 is a faster than the 3700 (sometimes much faster). They aren't too far apart in MT workloads but the 2700X is faster there. Personally, I'd go with the 3600 either way. Better memory support, faster memory, and 65 watts. Really, the only reason to go with a 2700x is if you are only going to be doing multi-threaded apps. Even then, it's not significantly faster than the 3600. The only thing you really gain with the 2700x is the RGB cpu cooler. I'd stick with your x570 and swap in the 3600.

Any B450 board you buy new now SHOULD already have an updated BIOS for Ryzen 3000 series. If you're worried then buy the MSI B450 Tomahawk MAX, which is literally guaranteed to have the updated BIOS because having more onboard BIOS storage is it's entire raison d'etre.

X570 is a poor choice for most people. Their only unique capability is PCI-e 4.0, which no devices can currently take advantage of except for some SSDs to give you imperceptibly faster speeds.

Should and do are two different things. There are still boards with issues. Every so often I'll check the MSI Gaming section on reddit and I still see posts about their boards (just to see if the board I had is working now). The MAX should be fine but I, personally, wouldn't risk it for the extra $50.