Moggy wrote:Natus wrote:I hope this isn't off topic and I hope it's a small issue. About two weeks ago, I started to get Disk Write Error messages when Steam games would update. After a few tries, they would usually resolve as normal, but today I have three games that can't update. I've scanned the disk and de-fragged it, but I'm not sure what else to do. None of my three drives are full, so I'm not sure what is going on. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Uh oh. Sound's like you're starting to get bad sectors. I'm assuming this is a spinny disk? I'd run CHKDSK on the disk to search for and mark bad sectors.
I'd also take this as a sign that you should be replacing the disk sooner rather than later.
No, actually. This is a fairly new SSD I installed a year ago, if memory serves. I didn't think this sort of thing could happen if the drive integrity was good out of the box.
(Uh oh)^2
Still worth running CHKDSK
Install and run the brands disk software, might reveal any problems.
Depending on timeframe you might have been hit by the windows bug from a year or so ago that was constantly auto optimizing ssds and wrecking them.
You also never want to defrag an SSD. That will shorten the life of an SSD.
I've repaired the SSD a few times today, and some games have updated just fine. But three games just aren't, so this looks like something more nefarious. First time I've had to deal with this, so I really appreciate the advice!
Install or move the game installs to another drive to see if the problem persists.
Hopefully it does as that means it isn't a problem with your SSD.
To go along with the Lenovo Legion, I did check out Best Buy, Microcenter, Newegg, Office Depot, et al...
I ended up picking up this guy from Ebay for $130. Pretty nice deal for this 24" IPS monitor.
I've had my Alienware R10 for about a month and it's time for an update.
I like it. Plenty fast and, as a rule, quiet as a mouse. Still isn't recognizing my "M.2 drive on a card". Disk space isn't an issue at the moment, but I'll probably add another SSD to get my games off the boot drive.
While it's normally quiet, when temps start to rise it gets *really* loud. I'm going to investigate making it quieter, but I think the best thing to do would be put all the innards into a larger case with lots of big fans. Bigger fans mean slower RPMs for the same air flow, so quieter.
One other interesting thing I ran into. Persistence on my OLED monitor from my desktop wallpaper. Not seen that since the switch from CRT to LED oh-so-many moons ago. Nothing a rotating selection and activating the screen saver couldn't fix.
Glad you like it! I was sweating the recommendation a bit. 
As others have noted, moving to another case may be difficult given that Alienware seems to use some bespoke parts that might not attach to other cases. Dunno if this is true, have not tried it myself. But the fan design definitely does provide the right amount of cooling, so...
My R10 arrives today (from which I'm stealing the video card). Apparently the Ryzen version use an Intel cooler modified to "work" with Ryzen. I'd, uh, recommend replacing the cpu cooler if you've got a Ryzen. There's not a lot of room in there but the basic Intel cooler is a piece of crap.
Noise does seem to be a major complaint with the R10 so I can't blame you for moving it.
My R10 arrives today (from which I'm stealing the video card). Apparently the Ryzen version use an Intel cooler modified to "work" with Ryzen. I'd, uh, recommend replacing the cpu cooler if you've got a Ryzen. There's not a lot of room in there but the basic Intel cooler is a piece of crap.
I think anyone that actually uses that system needs to put an AIO in it, which unfortunately will be limited to a 120mm AIO. But there’s no room for any reasonable air cooling solution.
garion333 wrote:My R10 arrives today (from which I'm stealing the video card). Apparently the Ryzen version use an Intel cooler modified to "work" with Ryzen. I'd, uh, recommend replacing the cpu cooler if you've got a Ryzen. There's not a lot of room in there but the basic Intel cooler is a piece of crap.
I think anyone that actually uses that system needs to put an AIO in it, which unfortunately will be limited to a 120mm AIO. But there’s no room for any reasonable air cooling solution.
Which should be fine for everything but overclocking and folks looking for the edgiest of speed.
Actually a 120mm AIO will fail to dissipate heat fast enough and reach heat saturation on your coolant significantly faster, allowing you to thermal throttle pretty easily when under load for shorter amounts of time.
The only way to overcome that at that radiator size is with raw fan speed. Which is why he's saying his computer sounds like a leaf blower when it starts to warm up.
If your case has *very* good airflow otherwise, it would help significantly.
I did some googling, and transferring the R10 system parts into a new case would at the very least require case modding and or a new motherboard and new power supply.
The IO on the back of the system won't fit a regular case IO slot, and if you change out the motherboard and swap in all the parts the DELL PSU is custom and therefore has different wiring than what an ATX motherboard requires making it incompatible.
Of course if the CPU is soldered onto the board (something I have no idea about) then you could scrap the new motherboard idea.
Actually a 120mm AIO will fail to dissipate heat fast enough and reach heat saturation on your coolant significantly faster, allowing you to thermal throttle pretty easily when under load for shorter amounts of time.
The only way to overcome that at that radiator size is with raw fan speed. Which is why he's saying his computer sounds like a leaf blower when it starts to warm up.
If your case has *very* good airflow otherwise, it would help significantly.
If you look at the R10 setup you'll understand why even a 120mm liquid cooler will work better, even if it's not ideal. The Alienware is running a stock cooler in a cramped space. The PSU is literally on top of the cpu cooler. If go so far as to say they designed it that way FOR liquid cooling.
Yeah, a 120mm AIO is not ideal, but there is no other option for that case.
There is so little clearance above the CPU that even the dinky stock-style cooler is practically pushed up against the PSU housing. Even a low profile cooler like the Noctua C14S is out of the question.
The AIO will at least be able to draw air across the rad without any blockages in the way.
I saw this post where someone did 2x Noctua 120mm fans on their rad in a push/pull config, and then put two Noctua 120mm fan upgrades in the available intake positions (having to remove the hard drive to open up one of those). If I owned an R10, I would probably do something like this.
Yeah, a 120mm AIO is not ideal, but there is no other option for that case.
My R10 has the AIO
saw this post where someone did 2x Noctua 120mm fans on their rad in a push/pull config, and then put two Noctua 120mm fan upgrades in the available intake positions (having to remove the hard drive to open up one of those). If I owned an R10, I would probably do something like this.
I saw the same post. I'll probably try this first. I went with the R10 as I was struggling with sourcing a 5900x and a 3080ti for my own build.
Meanwhile, I've just hit an "activation limit" on one of my pieces of software. Hopefully the company will give me another activation for my key or it's off down a "find new CAD tool" rabbit hole.
*Legion* wrote:Yeah, a 120mm AIO is not ideal, but there is no other option for that case.
My R10 has the AIO
saw this post where someone did 2x Noctua 120mm fans on their rad in a push/pull config, and then put two Noctua 120mm fan upgrades in the available intake positions (having to remove the hard drive to open up one of those). If I owned an R10, I would probably do something like this.I saw the same post. I'll probably try this first. I went with the R10 as I was struggling with sourcing a 5900x and a 3080ti for my own build.
Meanwhile, I've just hit an "activation limit" on one of my pieces of software. Hopefully the company will give me another activation for my key or it's off down a "find new CAD tool" rabbit hole.
They should provide a way to deactivate the software on devices you're no longer using it on.
If you look at the R10 setup you'll understand why even a 120mm liquid cooler will work better, even if it's not ideal. The Alienware is running a stock cooler in a cramped space. The PSU is literally on top of the cpu cooler. If go so far as to say they designed it that way FOR liquid cooling.
Oh I understand why it's there. Its just another example of Alienware making blatantly terrible decisions in case design for no meaningful reason.
How their laptop division does such a relatively good job in so much more complicated a market while their desktop division does... well what they're doing, is baffling.
The GamersNexus video title is apt 
The lack of supply and terrible pricing on GPU's forcing people into systems like that is a real bummer.
So, what's the best way to sell my "new" Alienware R10 Ryzen edition with my old video card in it? Craigslist?
Moggy wrote:Meanwhile, I've just hit an "activation limit" on one of my pieces of software. Hopefully the company will give me another activation for my key or it's off down a "find new CAD tool" rabbit hole.
They should provide a way to deactivate the software on devices you're no longer using it on.
There was an email waiting for me this morning informing me that the activations for my key have been reset.
Yay!
Meanwhile, I've just hit an "activation limit" on one of my pieces of software. Hopefully the company will give me another activation for my key or it's off down a "find new CAD tool" rabbit hole.
What software are you using?
So, what's the best way to sell my "new" Alienware R10 Ryzen edition with my old video card in it? Craigslist?
Either that or you strip it down to components and sell them individually on eBay or the like.
Might be tricky selling a complete system when the GPU is a bit of a mismatch for the rest of the system. But with the hardware market so out of whack, who knows?
Meanwhile, I've just hit an "activation limit" on one of my pieces of software. Hopefully the company will give me another activation for my key or it's off down a "find new CAD tool" rabbit hole.What software are you using?
TurboCAD 2020
Like the software, dislike the push to upgrade every year. I upgrade every 3 years or so.
garion333 wrote:So, what's the best way to sell my "new" Alienware R10 Ryzen edition with my old video card in it? Craigslist?
Either that or you strip it down to components and sell them individually on eBay or the like.
Might be tricky selling a complete system when the GPU is a bit of a mismatch for the rest of the system. But with the hardware market so out of whack, who knows?
Oh, I plan on taking a loss on the sale. Win/win for both parties. I get a new card, they get a beast rig ready for a new card. 
I still have nothing bad to say about our Alienwares. Je regrette rien!
So, what's the best way to sell my "new" Alienware R10 Ryzen edition with my old video card in it? Craigslist?
What are the specs on the R10 you got?
-BEP
garion333 wrote:So, what's the best way to sell my "new" Alienware R10 Ryzen edition with my old video card in it? Craigslist?
What are the specs on the R10 you got?
-BEP
This one: https://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/gami...
16GB, 1x16GB, DDR4, 3200MHz, XMP
AMD Ryzen(TM) 7 5800 (8-Core, 36MB Total Cache, Max Boost Clock of 4.6GHz)
Dark Side of the Moon chassis with Low-Profile Smart Cooling CPU Heatsink and 550W Power Supply
512GB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD
This is the particular video card that's in there now. I plunked it in and ran 3DMark and everything worked out well.
Roger. Thanks.
-BEP
Nice!
You might be able to resell the Alienware at a profit…
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