Just a question, but are your queens marked with a spot of paint? Is that still common practice?
I feel like im playing wheres waldo... I'm terrible at wheres waldo, can i get a hint, a quadrant?
edit: nevermind, I found it, that is tough! I cannot imagine doing that with them moving.
Yup, commercially bought queens are usually marked with paint. I think one my current queens has a little smiley face sticker on her back.
I have absolutely no luck finding them. I think many of them have an instinct to hide when the hive is opened. Some keepers think that finding the queen is an essential part of regular maintenance. My feeling is that the more time I spend looking for a queen, the more likely I am to accidentally injure her or upset the hive in some way.
A lot of commercial keepers hunt down and kill their queens every year. They think this helps keep the hive vigorous and maximizes honey production.
My approach, so far, has been to minimize interventions and to try to let the hive take care of hive business on its own.
Yeah, I had a glass case demo hive and could look at my leisure. We also had florescent green marks, so... Easier. But the other bees seem to cover up the queen whenever they can.
This is gonna sounds dumb, but how do commercial bee sellers force the production of a bunch of queens to mail to people? Do they use that forced split method polq described? Also, how do they hold them down long enough to paint them?
Honestly, I've seen - decades ago - a queen isolated in it's own little cage, and a paintbrush used to dab a dot on it. Dunno if that's how its done today.
Skiptron wrote:This is gonna sounds dumb, but how do commercial bee sellers force the production of a bunch of queens to mail to people? Do they use that forced split method polq described? Also, how do they hold them down long enough to paint them?
There are really extensive bee queen rearing programs. I don't know to much about it other than when a hive makes a queen they usually make 3-6 at a time. The first one out makes a noise and the others in the cup respond to it. She then goes around killing them with her stinger (its not barbed so she can stabby stabby as much as she wants). So you can cut out the cups and boom you have 4 extra queens. So if you have 300 hives you can force several of them to start rearing queens by different processes. Say 50 of them are needing queens if you get on average 4 extra queens per hive then thats 200 extra queens.
What is the competitive advantage to that? There there a high incidence of mutation or deformities in queens?
Anyone have any experience with these? Tips? Thoughts?
Ordered a new hive the other day. Hopefully I will have time to get it together before the bees are here. How are people finding the spring for their bees? Polq everyone make through the winter?
Both hives made it through the winter. I tried to make a third hive by doing a split. The split, described a few posts above, did not go as smoothly as hoped. The story is complicated, but I tried using a new anti robbing screen to protect the new hive and it had the effect of preventing the bees from cleaning the hive and created hugely unhygenic conditions. I ended up scraping a centimeter thick layer of parasitic maggot larvae (probably pantry moths) from the bottom of the hive. Super gross! I think there was a pretty significant die off, which I tried to fix by adding in another frame of capped brood with some queen cells. Still waiting to see if the rescue works.
Anyway, I'm not really sure where my viable queens are at this point.
I seem to be producing a lot more bees than honey. Weather has been not great so far this spring, with a lot of rainy days and only a few good flying days each week. The northern California snowpack is at about 160% of normal.
Nimcosi, I've used similar stacked arrangements of bamboo/wood tubes, and they work just great. If you have mason bees in the area, they will *love* that. And it is zero maintenance; use it till the tubes fill up or the thing starts to fall apart.
Nimcosi wrote:Anyone have any experience with these? Tips? Thoughts?
Looks like a great Mason bee hive. I've never done it myself but know a lot who do. Low maintenance, great pollinators.
OOH. theres no room at my townhome for a real hive, but I bet I can talk to head of the HOA into letting me hang this.
Mason bees are great. You can literally stand in a cloud of them and they will just ignore you. Good when small kids are around.
Not a beekeeper, but I've always appreciated bees unique place in our world. I saw this article a couple days ago about some hives that were torched by an arsonist(s) down near Houston. I can't even begin to imagine why somebody would do something like this.
So I got my bees yesterday. Then at 10pm the night before I got an email saying that the vendor was going to be FAR short on the nucs they sold, meaning most people would not get what they paid for. Needless to say I was upset about this. I showed up to get my bees and am told I can have one nuc, and one package. The whole reason I was doing a nuc was to have an established hive and no need for a package. He offered to throw in drawn combs, but I already have those from the failed hives. They're not what I needed. He did offer a partial refund for taking the package which was a discount on their normal price. Overall the whole process was not the best.
That aside, I got both hives installed and are now being fed with entrance jar feeders. I am still hopeful that I will be able to take better care of these then previously since they are now on my property. Yesterday morning was a beautiful day for it, which is nice cause the rest of the week will be crap.in about a month I am going to do a oxalic acid vapor treatment then put on another deep box for each hive to build into.
I've had good luck with packages. As long as you keep them well fed, they should be fine. Still, it's frustrating not being able to start off your plan the right way.
OA: Unless recommended by your local keepers, I'd consider holding off on OA treatments until the end of summer. I've been using OA soaked towels instead of vapor and I've committed to an every four months treatment schedule. My hives have tolerated OA very well, BUT the Italian hive completely shuts down brood production for a month while the OA towels are present (this shutdown is another benefit for varroa control because induced brood shutdowns -often by capturing and sequestering the queen- are one of the best and only methods of totally natural varroa control). You may not want to risk shutting down brood production with a brand new hive, especially when varroa levels are probably very low.
Entrance feeders: After last year's experience, I'm kind of down on them. I've got one on my weakest hive, the new split, right now. But, my experience last year suggested that putting the food sources directly on the hives also made them robbing targets for other hives. The entrance feeders are probably vital for a brand new hive, but I'd keep the entrance reduced down to an inch or so. For later supplemental feeding and winter build up, I'm putting feeders about 20 feet in front of the hives.
My new third hive, started by splitting a one of the established hives, got off to a bad start. But, I think there is a laying queen in there now. Unfortunately, I'm seeing my first case of chalkbrood with the split. Apparently, this happens when the nurse bees can't keep the larvae warm enough and they die in their brood cells and develop fungal growths. As far as I can tell, the best response is to provide food and nutrition so that the hive can get strong enough to raise their young.
There are a few courses of action to try to rescue the nuc, but at this point in the year I think buying a new queen from a local breeder is the best choice.
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