Given how many corporate apps have been begging me to let them track me, Apple's privacy restrictions have to have some teeth. The app makers wouldn't want to call attention to the tracking if they didn't have to.
iOS’s cross-app tracking blocking rocked Meta to their core. It cost them billions, and they had to pivot as a company because of it. It’s probably the most meaningful privacy feature that has been rolled out for general average user use in a long time.
It’s why Instagram has gone so hard on Reels, and building Reels into an advertising delivery machine. Meta needed a new ad platform in a hurry.
Since my previous employer gave free iPhones in 2017, I've been in the ecosphere. Our daughters have iPads since 3 years. A few months back I handed my iPhone 13 to my wife, when I got an iPhone 15. Until then she was on Android.
The switch was fairly seamless, helped by the fact my wife doesn't use paid apps. As she's not a techie, I expected to do a lot of support, but it's been smooth sailing. Not a single question so far!
And honestly, with our entire family now on iOS, we're one Spotify or Amazon Prime price hike away from the Apple Family Plan being cheaper than our current 200GB iCloud subscription + Spotify/Prime.
We like that if you are part of the same "family", all your purchases are shared between each other.
I but a movie or song, my family gets it as well.
I’m almost a little embarrassed how deep I am into the ecosystem with the Apple Watch, AirPods, Apple TVs, and HomePods, but I genuinely love how well everything works together.
I'm also planted firmly in this walled garden. Sure it's a walled garden, but it's a really really nice garden.
We like that if you are part of the same "family", all your purchases are shared between each other.
I but a movie or song, my family gets it as well.
To be fair, google play does this too.
mudbunny wrote:We like that if you are part of the same "family", all your purchases are shared between each other.
I but a movie or song, my family gets it as well.
To be fair, google play does this too.
I had no idea.
Today I learned.
also if you sign up for moviesanywhere.com you can login to all your video services and anything you bought from one is available to all. only works with movies though.
also if you sign up for moviesanywhere.com you can login to all your video services and anything you bought from one is available to all. only works with movies though.
and only with movies that support MA.
My ASUS ROGUE RAPTURE GTXA 11000 has being quite the butt lately. I've reset, hard reset, software reset and it won't talk to my modem (xfinity). It works with my old router (the moden) and now I want to reinact office space with it. Its hard to google when the internet doesn't work.
My ASUS ROGUE RAPTURE GTXA 11000 has being quite the butt lately. I've reset, hard reset, software reset and it won't talk to my modem (xfinity). It works with my old router (the moden) and now I want to reinact office space with it. Its hard to google when the internet doesn't work.
Clone the MAC address from the old router. Xfinity's MAC address filtering is obnoxious.
What's a good usb cable manufacturer these days? I need a couple of reliable c to c cables (3 foot ones preferably at least usb c 3.0) for data and i know cables can be pretty scammy.
A little warning about Apple. I had a trusty old iPad Pro that I was trying to use to bridge until the new version was released. It could not charge, and for various reasons I suspected the charging controller. (No swelling, no issues with the physical port, just a minimum charge reading and nothing more when plugged in.)
Anyway, I finally took it in to the Apple Store after listening to third party repair folks moan about how it would be impossible to guarantee that replacing just part of the battery system would work, and quote me "don't want to" money for the job. I did not have an active Apple Care warranty but that turned out not to be a factor.
The first thing Apple will do before they fix your device is to power it on. If they can't do that, even to the BIOS, you are stuck with a hunk of pretty aluminum and Gorilla glass. Period. No power on Earth can convince them to fix it without the self-diagnostics being run.
I ended up getting a new one after careful consideration of the inconvenience of waiting for the fancy new display and upgrades that are (still) coming in the near future. They don't lower the price of older ones, either, until they are no longer made and you're dealing with reconditioned ones. And they don't go on sale.
This is one of the reasons I moved to Android for my phone years ago. But for a backup to a laptop for work, the iPad Pro can't be beat. Still, it's unfortunate that there is no landscape to portrait switchable Magic stand. If I for some reason want to actually *use* the incredibly advanced camera on the iPad, I need to remove it from the Magic stand, which is easy. But if I want to *protect* it while I use it in Portrait mode, that's another $100 case (more with built-in or Bluetooth keyboard), and a seriously inconvenient amount of wedging and possible torquing damage in the process.
Still, it's got the right stuff to work with MS Office, in the right form factor, so.... I'm stuck with that. But not for other devices. I don't use Samsung's ecosystem (other than backup), and while Google is trading my "private" browsing info (just like Apple apps can do), they have a much more open ecosystem, which is also easier to jailbreak should I want to.
I just don't like walled gardens in general.
What's a good usb cable manufacturer these days? I need a couple of reliable c to c cables (3 foot ones preferably at least usb c 3.0) for data and i know cables can be pretty scammy.
Typical name brands like Belkin, Anker, etc... Monoprice or Amazon Basics are options too.
Tycho the Mad wrote:What's a good usb cable manufacturer these days? I need a couple of reliable c to c cables (3 foot ones preferably at least usb c 3.0) for data and i know cables can be pretty scammy.
Typical name brands like Belkin, Anker, etc... Monoprice or Amazon Basics are options too.
Ugreen ones have worked out well for me.
Thinking of adding in Yubikeys to my security mix. Do I need one spare for each one I have? How does that work, so that if I lose one I don't get locked out?
Thinking of adding in Yubikeys to my security mix. Do I need one spare for each one I have? How does that work, so that if I lose one I don't get locked out?
You call your IT and have them set the yubikey entry to some random value until you find your old one.
We just started swapping to yubikeys at my office. The policy is 2 separate means of verification. Most people have a yubikey and then an app based verification where they can get push notifications. For users not able or willing to use their device they can get a second yubikey.
"IT"? lol
It'sa me, Robeario!
I'm sorry that I have to emerge from my moldy P&C lair, but I have a question about an unholy union of technology that I best trust this hive-mind to answer.
I intend to buy the hockey game Tape-to-Tape from Steam and play it on my PC. The developers recommend playing with a "controller." Attached to my PC. Physically.
Assuming I ultimately assent to this human centipede-esque grafting of PC and console, which (inexpensive) controller should I buy?
An Xbox One controller.
I'm sorry that I have to emerge from my moldy P&C lair, but I have a question about an unholy union of technology that I best trust this hive-mind to answer.
I intend to buy the hockey game Tape-to-Tape from Steam and play it on my PC. The developers recommend playing with a "controller." Attached to my PC. Physically.
Assuming I ultimately assent to this human centipede-esque grafting of PC and console, which (inexpensive) controller should I buy?
Controllers are awesome, what the heckfire dude?
Also, yeah, Xbox One controller is great.
And i will add, Tape to Tape is a blast. I have been playing it mostly on a SteamDeck but when on my PC i use the xbox controller. Not a cheap one but it works great.
The logitech 310 is relatively inexpensive and pretty reliable, it took my kid from age 2 till age 7 to destroy mine, and she had to resort to chewing on the cable.
I'm still using an XBox 360 controller on my PC. It's wireless and came with a USB dongle.
I'm sorry that I have to emerge from my moldy P&C lair, but I have a question about an unholy union of technology that I best trust this hive-mind to answer.
I intend to buy the hockey game Tape-to-Tape from Steam and play it on my PC. The developers recommend playing with a "controller." Attached to my PC. Physically.
Assuming I ultimately assent to this human centipede-esque grafting of PC and console, which (inexpensive) controller should I buy?
Xbox One controller support is pretty universal across non-console devices; Windows, Mac, iOS, hell even Apple TV support it. I recommend a newer "Series" controller with Bluetooth just for ease of connection, but you could also just hardwire it with a USB-C cable.
My other recommendation would be 8bitdo controllers, just find the one thats compatible with Windows/Steam and that looks comfortable for you and your game. Third-party controllers have come a long way since MadCatz controllers for younger siblings.
8Bitdo is definitely a good alternative that's a bit less expensive than the official ones. Also, don't feel bad or like we're piling on, but it really is just something that should be considered standard PC gaming setup to have a controller for anyone who plays a decent variety of games, with the exception being niche genre specialist. Especially as a group like this forum's members ages, controllers are a great method to allow those whose bodies are wearing out continue to enjoy games.
I personally am on only my 2nd xbox controller since around 2008, having abandoned buying Sony and MS consoles after the PS3. My controller of choice was originally an Xbox 360, and now an Xbox One/Series controller. I believe the One and Series controller is essentially the same thing.
I believe the One and Series controller is essentially the same thing.
Yes and no.
In addition to minor hardware differences, early One controllers were available in both Bluetooth and non Bluetooth forms. Be aware of that if you're buying for PC gaming as you probably want wireless.
it sounds like he needs a wired controller (i've never played a game that required wired over wireless, but i've never played tape to tape)
mrtomaytohead wrote:I believe the One and Series controller is essentially the same thing.
Yes and no.
In addition to minor hardware differences, early One controllers were available in both Bluetooth and non Bluetooth forms. Be aware of that if you're buying for PC gaming as you probably want wireless.
It's not really that there was a mix, there were three revisions during the Xbox One lifetime. The first had bumpers that only hinged on the inner end; you could not push down there and it suuuuucked. The second iteration fixed it so you could click in the bumper anywhere, and added the headset jack. The final one added Bluetooth and removed the layer separation between the main body and the Xbox button. The Series controller is mostly that, but slightly smaller, and with a clicky d-pad.
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