Feegle, I would love to see it!
So, it's not a whole wall; it was an accent strip running up the outside edge of a staircase. In the picture you can see the wall below it as drywall. Still, we are actually quite pleased with the effect - it's got texture, but it looks nice as a solid colour. We also used Kilz primer, followed by two coats of an interior eggshell finish. The colour's not quite so orange as in this photo - that's the light - it's a kind of a yellow-brown. (Trust me, it looks much better than that sounds.)
Feegle wrote:There's a tool on the market that my father swears by for paint removal called the Dremel Multi-Max. It's an oscillator, as opposed to the normal Dremel rotary tool, and there are tool heads that come with it and are intended for stripping finishes. It's light and maneuverable enough that you could probably strip the cupboards without having to remove them.
I have an oscillating tool similar to the Multi Max. The blade is very thin and so makes very clean cuts in plastics. I've used it to cut formica countertops and corrugated plastic roofing to great effect. Also, with the way the blade is designed, you can cut things off basically flush with the surface they protrude from. For stripping... what scares me about those tasks is all the curved / concave parts. The Dremel would be great for the flats though.
You can get specialty wheels that are made for paint removal. However, then the issues becomes an issue of how much surface area you're covering, which is why I'd recommend something that would mount on either an angle grinder or drill over the dremel.
Cross posting from questions thread:
I need advice of a home heating person, I got a new natural gas line installed to our house and I need to connect it to existing line at the house (currently propane) I also need to convert my furnace back to natural gas.
Cross posting from questions thread:
I need advice of a home heating person, I got a new natural gas line installed to our house and I need to connect it to existing line at the house (currently propane) I also need to convert my furnace back to natural gas.
For running the line, you want a plumber, not HVAC. He should be able to see about converting the furnace as well, since that'll mainly involve a plumbing switchover.
Fastmav347 wrote:Cross posting from questions thread:
I need advice of a home heating person, I got a new natural gas line installed to our house and I need to connect it to existing line at the house (currently propane) I also need to convert my furnace back to natural gas.
For running the line, you want a plumber, not HVAC. He should be able to see about converting the furnace as well, since that'll mainly involve a plumbing switchover.
The furnace should be just jets and some springs with no plumming needed, it was originally a natural gas furnace and then they put this in http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewpro...
I'll call around on the plummer I guess.
... (in my neck of the woods, we call it beaverboard, for reasons I've never been entirely clear on.).
Because around here it was a standard stock item in the local builder supply chain 'Beaver Lumber' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beaver_...); Stores no longer in existence, consumed by Home hardware before the turn of the century.
AnimeJ wrote:Fastmav347 wrote:Cross posting from questions thread:
I need advice of a home heating person, I got a new natural gas line installed to our house and I need to connect it to existing line at the house (currently propane) I also need to convert my furnace back to natural gas.
For running the line, you want a plumber, not HVAC. He should be able to see about converting the furnace as well, since that'll mainly involve a plumbing switchover.
The furnace should be just jets and some springs with no plumming needed, it was originally a natural gas furnace and then they put this in http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewpro...
I'll call around on the plummer I guess.
Any time you have to mess around with gas fittings, it's a plumber doing it. You should be able to get all of that taken care of in one go; none of it sounds particularly complex.
AnimeJ wrote:Fastmav347 wrote:Cross posting from questions thread:
I need advice of a home heating person, I got a new natural gas line installed to our house and I need to connect it to existing line at the house (currently propane) I also need to convert my furnace back to natural gas.
For running the line, you want a plumber, not HVAC. He should be able to see about converting the furnace as well, since that'll mainly involve a plumbing switchover.
The furnace should be just jets and some springs with no plumming needed, it was originally a natural gas furnace and then they put this in http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewpro...
I'll call around on the plummer I guess.
I really recommend AngiesList to find people. It is pretty cheap and has MUCH more than paid for itself with me between the deals they have and the quality work.
After doing research I'm doing this myself, I am mechanically/skilled inclined to do this sort of work and I don't want to pay someone 300 dollars to run 1 foot of pipe. I didn't realize its this easy, and at the same time also reminded how underpaid mechanics are.
Just an update, I connected the meter to the house today, was waaay easier than I expected, I spent more time driving to and from home depot then doing the actual line. A new valve for the furnace should be here middle of next week.
Has anyone used pex to run water lines? I want to add a hot and cold line from the basement to a wall in my kitchen (move laundry out of the basement). It is probably a 10 foot run, not sure how I am going to do the drainage yet...
well I need a new hot water tank, mines 16 years old and leaking. /sigh
Has anyone used pex to run water lines? I want to add a hot and cold line from the basement to a wall in my kitchen (move laundry out of the basement). It is probably a 10 foot run, not sure how I am going to do the drainage yet...
I did some reading on it before my last project; ended up not using it. The big trick is the turning radius of PEX tubing; if you have a tight corner you need to make it around, you're SOL. Tight corners need copper fittings, and the number of turns I had to make made me nervous about the number of joints I'd have to make, and the potential for leaks. I'm sure it would have been fine; it just made me nervous because I'm an plumbing amateur, at best.
Two electrical questions:
1. So larger appliances (Heat Pumps, Air Conditioners) have a "Max Breaker" stat, for the largest size ircuit Breaker they should be installed attached to.
How much is that a guideline, and how much is that a rule? If you have additional things attached to that circuit is it ok to increase the size of the breaker, or is that dangerous? I just got a geothermal heat pump installed and the manual states that it should be put on a 40 Amp breaker at the most, but they put in a 50 amp breaker for it.
2. When the electrician was here he moved some things around in my electrical box. The three breakers he moved no longer sit flush with the rest of the breakers. They are offset by a couple millimeters, not fully sliding on to the electrical connection. They still make contact, and still pass electricity through, but it seems pretty worrying that they aren't full pushed in. I tried to push them in more, and could not force them. I have done some electrical work myself, and unseated/reseated some of the other breakers for reference, and none of the others gave me any trouble whatsoever.
Thanks!
Ladies and gentlemen,
I have just installed a shower curtain rod for a claw foot tub (Exhibit A). There are little screws (Exhibit B) that look like they can go well past the hand tightened point they are in the picture. These are supporting the connection of the oval ring to the risers, so I would guess hand tightened isn't going to cut the mustard. The problem is, I tightened one too far and it popped through the metal tubing. The tubing is fairly thick, and there is no cracking where the screw was tightened.
My question - do you think all screws should be tightened "into the metal tube"? Of course, there are no instructions online for this products and support is non-existent.
Any and all thoughts welcome!
Hard to tell without seeing the screws and the rod.
My question - do you think all screws should be tightened "into the metal tube"? Of course, there are no instructions online for this products and support is non-existent.
Hard to tell without seeing the screws and the rod.
Agreed.
However, from what I can see, it certainly makes sense that the screws should be driven into the tubing itself. I wouldn't do it without drilling pilot holes in order to preserve the integrity of the metal. I'd do my best to estimate the diameter of the solid part of the screw and use that size drill bit for the pilot hole.
I was thinking of some pilot holes. Good to have others thinking the same thing.
I was thinking of some pilot holes. Good to have others thinking the same thing.
Well, if it's already got them, or the screws are self tapping, no need.
My question - do you think all screws should be tightened "into the metal tube"? Of course, there are no instructions online for this products and support is non-existent.
They look like standard set screws to me. They should be tightened enough to prevent the rod from sliding through, but no need to go all the way into the rod tube.
That said, if you've punched one through, I doubt it's a big deal. These are holding up a shower curtain, not a heavy load. I wouldn't be worried about it.
I don't think I've ever seen a set screw that looks like these. The ones I'm familiar with need an Allen wrench to be tightened with.
Also, set screws would allow for the hangar to fall off the vertical supports; going into that is a good thing here.
Punching through shouldn't be necessary, and any places you do punch through should probably be treated for rust resistance to be thorough, even if that just means dosing the hole with WD40 before and after you screw it in.
I installed one of these about 3 years ago, and the screws went all the way down into the tubing with pre-drilled holes. If you have already punched through the tube, do like Yonder says and rust prevent that spot and also any screw threads that are exposed to water.
Now that we have something we own, I'm trying to figure out how to organize all of the wires with all of my consoles and devices. Any suggestion? I was thinking of putting everything in the office on a hub and running the HDMI cable to the living room. I have no idea if the controller/motion stuff on the PS4 will work.
On Wednesday, the dishwasher poured out a gallon or two over the kitchen floor. I fixed that one myself, though. Yesterday the garage door broke (caused by the guide cable on one side apparently not having been on its drum). That one cost me $120, including tip, but now I pretty much know all about garage doors.
So, considering that the whole place felt like it was falling apart, I think we came through pretty OK.
The basement bathroom light switch has decided to stop providing power to the bulbs. If I roughly click it a few times the lights will flicker. A few more stronger than usual flips and maybe it will work for a few flips... but there's a strong smell of ionization, making me fear that there's some kind of short in there.
Do I just replace the whole assembly or is there some kind of corrosion I could scrape out of the mechanism? Less than 10 years since installation.
The basement bathroom light switch has decided to stop providing power to the bulbs. If I roughly click it a few times the lights will flicker. A few more stronger than usual flips and maybe it will work for a few flips... but there's a strong smell of ionization, making me fear that there's some kind of short in there.
Do I just replace the whole assembly or is there some kind of corrosion I could scrape out of the mechanism? Less than 10 years since installation.
At a buck a piece, replace it.
Rezzy wrote:The basement bathroom light switch has decided to stop providing power to the bulbs. If I roughly click it a few times the lights will flicker. A few more stronger than usual flips and maybe it will work for a few flips... but there's a strong smell of ionization, making me fear that there's some kind of short in there.
Do I just replace the whole assembly or is there some kind of corrosion I could scrape out of the mechanism? Less than 10 years since installation.
At a buck a piece, replace it.
Yeah, pretty cheap and easy fix.
Thirded. Replace the switch.
I just got the gutters cleaned.. for the first time in 5 years *cough*.
Today it was raining and I could still clearly see a stream coming through the soffit, between the gutter and the roof. Does that mean the cleaners didn't do a good job, or did my neglect lead to a problem where the water doesn't run off into the gutter properly?
Unfortunately we're in a town house so it's difficult to get up there to look.
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