Help Me Build My PC Catch-All

complexmath wrote:

I suggest submersing your entire case in mineral oil. You can't be too careful. Oh, except the hard drives. Those can just dangle out the side of the tub.

Agreed

Like this?

Citizen86 wrote:
psoplayer wrote:
Citizen86 wrote:

I'm not sure why they wouldn't be able to desolder the connector and solder on a new one, but I guess that would mean it was my fault, so if there was any chance they would agree to repair it, I assume the charge for the part, the labor, and shipping it back would probably not be worth it.

That actually sounds like a feasible self-repair if they end up rejecting it. That connector is standard part that should be available out there somewhere, and as long as you already have soldering equipment you don't have much else to lose by trying.

That's sort of what I was thinking. I am not very good with a soldering iron though, so I may sell it for cheap as a self-repair project....

Sounds like a perfect chance to learn, if you're not going to get much out of it anyway.

muraii wrote:
Citizen86 wrote:
psoplayer wrote:
Citizen86 wrote:

I'm not sure why they wouldn't be able to desolder the connector and solder on a new one, but I guess that would mean it was my fault, so if there was any chance they would agree to repair it, I assume the charge for the part, the labor, and shipping it back would probably not be worth it.

That actually sounds like a feasible self-repair if they end up rejecting it. That connector is standard part that should be available out there somewhere, and as long as you already have soldering equipment you don't have much else to lose by trying.

That's sort of what I was thinking. I am not very good with a soldering iron though, so I may sell it for cheap as a self-repair project....

Sounds like a perfect chance to learn, if you're not going to get much out of it anyway.

Fair enough! Now to find an 8-pin CPU connector....

I might have one on an old motherboard I could unsolder and mail to you. I'll check when I get home.

tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I might have one on an old motherboard I could unsolder and mail to you. I'll check when I get home.

Thanks!

I also just got this reply on the same topic on Hardforum, from "Raja@ASUS", the officlal Asus rep on the forum:

If you're oc'ing a 8 thred CPU to 4.6GHz+ and using lots of Prime95, I'd recommend using a motherboard with more than one EPS 12V connector. Some of the AMD CPUs ( like the Intel ones) can pull over 250W from the EPS 12V when stressed over 45GHz, putting a single EPS 12V outside spec. Prolonged usage like that will break the connector down.

-Rja

Is it just me, or does that sound legitimate, but also a load of BS? It's not like I got a cheap motherboard, their Sabertooth line is supposed to be top-end, highest quality products used, overclocking motherboards. It's like this reply was saying "Yeah, all that advertising we do of using military grade components? Yeah, we do that, but just don't stress it out too much".

He basically is saying that the only motherboard that I should be overclocking with is their one that is more expensive. I am starting to feel like a bit of a corporate tool for actually buying it now.

You want under-body rust protection?

muraii wrote:

You want under-body rust protection?

It wouldn't hurt...

Doesn't that just come down to the same thing as any overclock, experimenting to find the highest point where your system is stable. Putting more money into components is hoping that that is going to see a good return on investment.

I have an old X58 motherboard with that connector on it. Want me to go ahead and attempt to unsolder it? The motherboard is from an old Alienware desktop and worthless. I had just planned on mounting it on the wall sometime but never got around to it.

tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I have an old X58 motherboard with that connector on it. Want me to go ahead and attempt to unsolder it? The motherboard is from an old Alienware desktop and worthless. I had just planned on mounting it on the wall sometime but never got around to it.

If you don't mind, I guess that could work. Although, I could also possibly just call around to the computer shops here and ask if they have any junked boards I could use. Older boards might not have an 8-pin connector though, I guess that's the issue

Citizen86 wrote:
tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I have an old X58 motherboard with that connector on it. Want me to go ahead and attempt to unsolder it? The motherboard is from an old Alienware desktop and worthless. I had just planned on mounting it on the wall sometime but never got around to it.

If you don't mind, I guess that could work. Although, I could also possibly just call around to the computer shops here and ask if they have any junked boards I could use. Older boards might not have an 8-pin connector though, I guess that's the issue

Totally don't mind. I'll let you know if I manage to get it off successfully.

Citizen86 wrote:
tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I might have one on an old motherboard I could unsolder and mail to you. I'll check when I get home.

Thanks!

I couldn't find any connectors that were designed to go directly on the motherboard, but this plus this plus some wires could get you a new connector hanging off by a short wire.

psoplayer wrote:

I couldn't find any connectors that were designed to go directly on the motherboard, but this plus this plus some wires could get you a new connector hanging off by a short wire.

Thanks for the links! I'm not sure... but I think the first link is for the power supply.

I possibly could redo it myself on the power supply, but since that part was brand new, like 2 months old, I might as well ship it to Corsair and have them fix it, I suppose. Keep the warranty on it.

I'm not sure about having it hang off though... especially since this is the cord that is supplying all that power to the CPU. Don't really want to be messing with it.

tuffalobuffalo wrote:
Citizen86 wrote:
tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I have an old X58 motherboard with that connector on it. Want me to go ahead and attempt to unsolder it? The motherboard is from an old Alienware desktop and worthless. I had just planned on mounting it on the wall sometime but never got around to it.

If you don't mind, I guess that could work. Although, I could also possibly just call around to the computer shops here and ask if they have any junked boards I could use. Older boards might not have an 8-pin connector though, I guess that's the issue

Totally don't mind. I'll let you know if I manage to get it off successfully.

Thanks man. Yeah, let me know how that goes... if it's just soldered on or if there's more to it. That seems to be the only issue with the board, so if it is replaceable without too much fuss, it might be a relatively easy fix. I have a friend who might want it if it's all fixed up.

I'm afraid it's a no go on that 8-pin MB connecting part. I can't seem to unsolder it at all. I have solder removal stuff, but my soldering iron's tip is too big. I can't seem to turn the solder liquid.

tuffalobuffalo wrote:

I'm afraid it's a no go on that 8-pin MB connecting part. I can't seem to unsolder it at all. I have solder removal stuff, but my soldering iron's tip is too big. I can't seem to turn the solder liquid.

No worries, I appreciate the effort.

I might try to sell it for a few bucks, or I could chance it with Asus, though my chances don't seem high with them.... I'm still not very impressed with the Asus rep's comment, but I won't discuss it further, I think I'm coming off as whiny now

SuperHiro wrote:

Ah that's what I figured, but it's good to hear from the Council.

I might just yank the case fans out of the mobo connections and use the fan controller that came with the case. Might makes things a bit quieter.

So after a dissappointing draw in rec league soccer, I opened up the rig and did just that so I could feel like I succeeded at SOMETHING yesterday. Much quieter, and the heat increase isn't all that much. Now all I really hear is the buzzing from those poor little fans on the cooler. I'm gonna have to just live with that.

It's crazy how it goes from WHOOOOOOOSH at 12V and then pretty much nothing at 7V.

Citizen86 wrote:

I might try to sell it for a few bucks, or I could chance it with Asus, though my chances don't seem high with them.... I'm still not very impressed with the Asus rep's comment, but I won't discuss it further, I think I'm coming off as whiny now

Meh, The rep's comment didn't seem too reasonable to me either. At any rate, good luck!

tuffalobuffalo wrote:
Citizen86 wrote:

I might try to sell it for a few bucks, or I could chance it with Asus, though my chances don't seem high with them.... I'm still not very impressed with the Asus rep's comment, but I won't discuss it further, I think I'm coming off as whiny now

Meh, The rep's comment didn't seem too reasonable to me either. At any rate, good luck!

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?...

He has a few more comments, and smoeone comes in and says they're now unsure of buying from Asus because of threads like these and the rep's replies. His response is "Sorry, just making people aware of what can happen. But the Crosshair V is the most reliable board...."

Sigh

So I have been having lousy CPU performance for the last few weeks I haven't been able to resolve. I am running a Core2 Extreme QX6800 2.93GHz.

I just downloaded the Intel CPU Identification Utility. It gives me an expected speed and a reported speed for all of the cores. Expected is 2.93 GHz and a 1066MHz bus. Reported for all cores is 1.23GHZ and 823 MHZ bus.

I think that is my problem.

I foolishly ran the thing for a couple weeks underpowered, think I had a 6 pin instead of an 8 pin connector. Could that have damaged the cores?

Is it maybe underclocked in the bios somehow? Does the math work out?

I think that math is off. It might be downclocked in the BIOS, but it's not just the Mhz bus that is downclocked, seems like the multiplier has been lowered as well.

First thing I might check is that Windows isn't in a power saving mode. That downclocks the CPU something fierce.

Other than that, check the BIOS.

Yeah I would check the bios. I had that happen to an older computer. Once your there it should be an easy fix.

Try CPU-Z as well.

Weird. Checked the BIOS, all seemed hunky dory. 266 clock speed and multiplier of 11. Made two changes to enable USB keyboard and mouse. Restarted.

open up the CPU ID utility and it's reporting 2.75MHz and a bus of 950MHz (ballpark, I don't recall the specifics). Huge difference, but I didn't do anything.

At this point I fired up TF2 and stayed up to late because it was actually playable.

Quit TF2, fired up the utility and it came back with 1.9MHz. Closed and opened again to refresh and got a different result. I am a tech noob, but this is not normal I think.

Wondering if the voltage is varying? Any kind of damage to the chip that might cause this?

Will CPU-Z give me the actual speeds as well?

Remember that you probably have some energy saving options on the BIOS enabled, C1E I believe (that's what it is on my board, but I think AMD and Intel both have that feature?)

The important thing to note is it if stays at full speed when the CPU is being used. When it's idle and it downclocks, that is expected behavior to reduce power usage.

You could try one of the CPU stress testers like Prime95 or OCCT and check in CPU-Z, the CPU should be at full speed

Yeah, I'm not certain with that processor, but it should just be Intel's SpeedStep technology which dynamically changes the multiplier as CPU power is required. You can turn that off in the BIOS, but you don't usually want your CPU going full bore all the time. I'm not really familiar with the pre-Core CPUs, though, so I don't have much advice.

If you run something CPU intensive while checking the stats, you should get the actual numbers the CPU is set to. Something like RealTemp will dynamically show you what the multipliers are and what frequency the CPU is running at in addition to core temperatures.

I looked at that setting in the BIOS, minimum and maximum performance were set to 100%. Pretty sure that throttling is disabled but I will double check.

As of this moment, CPU-Z and the Intel Utility are right on target.

Have run Prime 95 for a few hours and didn't get any issues reported

We'll see if it holds up.

(now in the proper place)

Someone at MS plays around with 12k gaming: http://blogs.windows.com/windows/b/e...

Suck it consoles.

I wonder how long before you can do variable quality between displays, for example lower quality/framerate on the peripheral vision displays, and how much would you notice.

Scratched wrote:

(now in the proper place)

Someone at MS plays around with 12k gaming: http://blogs.windows.com/windows/b/e...

Suck it consoles.

I wonder how long before you can do variable quality between displays, for example lower quality/framerate on the peripheral vision displays, and how much would you notice.

We cant even get support for PLP (Portrait/Landscape/Portrait) from either AMD or Nvidia... I wouldnt hold my breadth for anything but bare bones support.

So while I save up for the new computer I was thinking about overclocking what I do have. A few friends of mine tell me I'm too worried about damage and failure and that I should just give it a try.

My components are as follows:
Motherboard board: Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3L LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX All Solid Capacitor Intel MB
Processor: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.4Ghz LGA 775 Quad Core
Ram: OCZ Reaper 4 GB (2*2 GB) 240 pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit
Case and power supply: Apevia Mid -Tower case with OCZ 600W
Graphics Card: EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1461-KR GeForce GTX 560 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

I really just want to work on the processor now, but have no idea what is possible and how safe it is. I can't fry my computer for at least a month or two, and preferably I'd be able to donate it to my little brother whose setup is even older.