Help Me Build My PC Catch-All

Yeah 750watts is to much power, you would do fine with a 650 watt which would be more then enough and still give you some extra head room in case you want to add stuff later.

TheGameguru wrote:

Look at the 7870..performs about on par with the 660ti for about $80 or so less... and of course you can crossfire/sli any modern Nvidia and AMD card these days.

Looks like Crossfire only works with cards in the same family (7850 with 7870), plus mixing cards can result in the faster card only performing at the same speed as the slower card

Will switch back to the Intel drive I think, I had some troubles with my OCZ Agility early on and I'd like to avoid that this time around.

avggeek wrote:
TheGameguru wrote:

Look at the 7870..performs about on par with the 660ti for about $80 or so less... and of course you can crossfire/sli any modern Nvidia and AMD card these days.

Looks like Crossfire only works with cards in the same family (7850 with 7870), plus mixing cards can result in the faster card only performing at the same speed as the slower card

Will switch back to the Intel drive I think, I had some troubles with my OCZ Agility early on and I'd like to avoid that this time around.

Well yes of course...that's how the technology works...I'm confused then by your question...do you already have a 7950?

TheGameguru wrote:

Well yes of course...that's how the technology works...I'm confused then by your question...do you already have a 7950?

Ah sorry about that. Guess I've been reposting less information each time. I currently have a 5870 and wasn't sure whether I should switch to a 660Ti or stick with AMD, get a 7950 and somehow get some more mileage out of the 5870.

The 5870 is still awfully strong. Unless you're above 1920x1200, you probably don't need a new card.

Ordered the final build today, pretty happy with it. Despite the vendor list, got everything through NewEgg and Amazon since it ended up saving me on tax and I have prime so I get free 2-day shipping.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS 7500 AlCu LED Ball Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($127.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($214.99 @ CompUSA)
Case: Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1147.86
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-17 13:23 EST-0500)

I thought CompUSA was dead.

EDIT: Ah, Tiger Direct.

One thing I've heard, and I'm sure I need Malor authentication on this is that when buying memory kits you should buy the total you intend to buy as one kit, because when memory manufacturers match up like performing chips it's within each kit, but between two kits could be different. So with 2 kits of 2, you could have A and A that match and B and B that match, but using all 4 don't.

I guess it only matters if you're really interested in that last percent of performance, and could well be a rare occurrence that two identical kits contain not-identical chips that mismatch and undermine performance (lowest common denominator speed?).

Thoughts?

I would have thought that as long as the timings match (CAS latency and such) it would be fine... Tho' back in the day you wanted to at least pair sticks for performance because of the way things were wired. Maybe that's not true anymore. All my PC-building knowledge comes from up to circa 2003 or so.

Each pair of memory chips should be from a matched set for maximum reliability, but I don't know that it's even possible to buy a set of 4 matched chips. At that point I think the timings just need to match between pairs.

When I started, it was a kind of, "well, my wife needs a new machine, maybe I'll just get one too..." thing, but now that I've ordered, I can't wait to get all the stuff in and put things together. GET HERE FASTER.

Thanks, everyone, for the pointers!

So with 2 kits of 2, you could have A and A that match and B and B that match, but using all 4 don't.

Yes, this is right... you don't have to have absolutely identical sticks in all four slots. The memory channels run in pairs, so you want the two chips in each pair to be the same, but the two channels can be slightly different without a problem.

Just don't mix chips from different runs or types into the same channel; the motherboard independently queries each stick for its desired settings, and it will set both sticks in a pair to the slowest of every setting, and there are a lot of settings. If one stick is slow at doing Thing A, and the other stick is slow at doing Thing B, both sticks will be run slowly doing both A and B. This can cause really severe performance degradation, if the chips are poorly matched.

The two channels, I believe, end up interleaved, so you want the overall performance class of both channels to be about comparable. If you start with DDR3-1600, you want to add at least 1600-speed memory when you expand, preferably at the same or better CAS level. As long as you keep the two pairs in separate channels, and don't mix them, this will work fine.

tl;dr version: match exactly within pairs, match approximately across pairs.

Ranger Rick wrote:

Ordered the final build today, pretty happy with it. Despite the vendor list, got everything through NewEgg and Amazon since it ended up saving me on tax and I have prime so I get free 2-day shipping.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS 7500 AlCu LED Ball Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($127.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($36.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($89.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card ($214.99 @ CompUSA)
Case: Antec P280 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1147.86
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-11-17 13:23 EST-0500)

Late to this party..I would cancel the 660 and order a 7870 ghz edition..saw on Newegg one for $214 after rebate...performance on par with a 660Ti and you get Far Cry 3 for free(if you care). But either way a faster card for = $

Malor wrote:

The 5870 is still awfully strong. Unless you're above 1920x1200, you probably don't need a new card.

Hm ok. I'm hoping to upgrade to a Dell 24" next year, but even that maxes out at 1920x1200. Atleast this means I can wait till the new generation of consoles comes out to see what type of graphics card horsepower us PC players will need to be able to play the next-gen games.

Question: I'm wanting to pick up an SSD as my roommate has one and it seems to be pretty amazing. However, I'm worried I may have a problem: I have a 1 TB drive that has been my main drive for a while now. It is almost full of stuff and it currently has my OS installed on it. I have a Windows XP Professional Disc and then a Windows 7 Professional Upgrade Disc for my current OS. Question is, is there a way to use these same discs to install an OS on the new SSD I want to get and transition over without: a) destroying everything on my current 1 TB OS Drive and b) buying an entirely new OS Disc?

Secondarily, if I can do this without much problem, what's the easiest way to make the switch and clean the old OS off of the 1 TB drive when its switched?

Tertiarily, if I do need to buy a new OS, what's GWJ's thoughts about Windows 8? I wasn't intending to upgrade to it, but if it costs the same price as Windows 7, why not...

Can you get in on one of the Win8 deals? Haven't they been like $40 or $50 for a license?

If you are going to do a clean install, just take out the 1tb drive to make sure you don't touch it, install SSD and install Windows.

Then you can put the 1tb back in and copy over what you want, then remove Windows from it and use it as a storage drive.

But will I be able to use the same disk to install Windows 7 on the SSD?

I don't have an answer, I haven't used an upgrade disc since Vista

superjars wrote:

But will I be able to use the same disk to install Windows 7 on the SSD?

I have done clean installs of Windows 7 with an upgrade disc. Had to make a small registry edit in order to get it to activate but all in all it was easy. Your milage may vary of course.

superjars wrote:

But will I be able to use the same disk to install Windows 7 on the SSD?

Yes. As long as the rest of the computer is the same (the motherboard really), you'll have no problem reinstalling Windows 7. You can either install XP first or do the registry hack mentioned here (method 2) and you're good to go.

Thanks for the input. I'll try this out and let you know how I did.

Could I get some advice on this? I have the pieces that are not listed here, like the monitor and power supply, mouse keyboard etc.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/oN5L

The sound card seems unnecessary, unless you need it for some special purpose like hooking up a midi controller.

DanyBoy wrote:

The sound card seems unnecessary, unless you need it for some special purpose like hooking up a midi controller.

You make a lot of sense, but then, it's only $24.99

Dakuna wrote:

Could I get some advice on this? I have the pieces that are not listed here, like the monitor and power supply, mouse keyboard etc.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/oN5L

Spend a couple more bucks on the video card and get a 7870

Dakuna wrote:

Could I get some advice on this? I have the pieces that are not listed here, like the monitor and power supply, mouse keyboard etc.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/oN5L

You could pick up a bigger SSD for the price. I know that Intel is supposed to be the best, but there are a lot of very decent options now.

So a black friday deal at my local electronics purveyor is for a Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200RPM for 90 CAD, which is about 40% off. I was thinking of picking up a couple, one for my primary storage device to back up my SSD, and one as my external backup drive. Right now I'm running SATA 3GB/s / USB 2.0 for the backup, so I could definitely use the speed increase, not to mention the storage increase (My current magnetic drive is 640GB)

Any thoughts on this drive?

Citizen86 wrote:
Dakuna wrote:

Could I get some advice on this? I have the pieces that are not listed here, like the monitor and power supply, mouse keyboard etc.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/oN5L

You could pick up a bigger SSD for the price. I know that Intel is supposed to be the best, but there are a lot of very decent options now.

Hmm, any suggestions are welcome. I honestly just picked something that was going to be inexpensive but had a good customer rating. I didn't even look at number of ratings (bad me!).

Corsair Carbide Series 500R White is on sale today for $70 after rebate. It's originally $140. I have been keeping an eye on this awesome case for my new future Intel proc build so I am biting and holding onto it.

Okay, I really wanted to price out building my own pc, but it looks like a prebuilt from Futureshop is going to be my best bet

Im just going to buy this one and buy a solid state drive to put in myself.

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/acer-acer-amd-fx-8120-3-1ghz-desktop-computer-am3450-ef10p-am3450-ef10p/10207075.aspx?path=26a83f3baebbd234cb97eaf771b2cbdben02

dangit how do I post this link in a less ugly fashion