Dapper Dan(ielle)'s Thread of Sartorial Delights

Awesome list, thank you Minarchist. I think I've found a good tailor near my home. As soon as I get some time I'm going to take a few shirts over to see if he can work some magic. I can't believe the stuff I was recommended to purchase, I look like I'm wearing a potato sack.

Picked up some shirts from brooks brothers 40% off sale. Great deals.

Need a DJ for a wedding I'm off to in a bit and am seriously considering buying one. I'm getting to that age where it somehow feels like it's important for me to have a dinner suit in the wardrobe even though I have no evidence for this:

There's a reasonably priced Paul Smith I've had my eye on:

IMAGE(http://static.paulsmith.co.uk/images/width350/pdxl-9369-r06-b-73313.jpg)

I'm fairly sure they do the same in a peaked collar which I'd rather as, being a DJ, you shouldn't really mess with classic styling.

I think I've come to the decision that I'll hire one for this wedding but if I have occassion to wear a DJ again within 2 years I'll take it as evidence I need to buy one.

In the meantime I think I'll just pick myself up a new black day suit:

IMAGE(http://static.paulsmith.co.uk/images/width348/p9xl-9551-bt1-b-25693.jpg)

Nice DJ. Love the peaks, though not a huge fan of the closed front quarters. That's a pretty high button stance. Have you actually tried it on? Since it's likely a 1-button (can't tell from small pic, but should be if it's a dinner jacket) the button should button at your natural waist, somewhere around or just above your navel.

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

Minarchist wrote:

Nice DJ. Love the peaks, though not a huge fan of the closed front quarters. That's a pretty high button stance. Have you actually tried it on? Since it's likely a 1-button (can't tell from small pic, but should be if it's a dinner jacket) the button should button at your natural waist, somewhere around or just above your navel.

Haven't tried it on and I suspect as you mention the waist may sit a little high. Can't really justify the purchase, it was more just a case of ogling suit porn.

Minarchist wrote:

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

I no longer have a black suit and need one. Funerals and court appearances happen, plus with the right shirt a black lounge suit fits the partywear slot nicely. I have other suits for versatility.

Fair enough, as long as you know.

Minarchist wrote:

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

Unless, you know, it's a formal event.

Grey suits are for business. Navy is for ... I don't know. The '90s?

I look like a hitman in my black suit. Or a chauffeur.

wordsmythe wrote:
Minarchist wrote:

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

Unless, you know, it's a formal event.

Grey suits are for business. Navy is for ... I don't know. The '90s?

Bottle Green double breasted is the 90's business suit of choice.

wordsmythe wrote:
Minarchist wrote:

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

Unless, you know, it's a formal event.

A mid-day formal event, sure (but how common are those?). Otherwise you're in formal Morning Dress or an evening Dinner Jacket.

Grey suits are for business. Navy is for ... I don't know. The '90s?

IMAGE(http://blackzero.highfsb.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/son-i-am-disappoint.gif)

Seriously, though, navy is still used all the time in standard business. It's considered one of the two staple colors. I'm wearing navy linen trousers right now, so clearly by extension they are the height of fashion and you should hope to emulate it someday; for now, be content to bask in their brilliant indigo aura.

Is that the facemodel for the TF2 heavy or something

Minarchist wrote:
wordsmythe wrote:
Minarchist wrote:

As to the black suit: maybe it's different down under, but around here black suits are reserved for funerals, bouncers, and hitmen. Charcoal grey or navy blue tend to work much better and be more versatile (due to being less formal).

Unless, you know, it's a formal event.

A mid-day formal event, sure (but how common are those?). Otherwise you're in formal Morning Dress or an evening Dinner Jacket.

Grey suits are for business. Navy is for ... I don't know. The '90s?

IMAGE(http://blackzero.highfsb.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/son-i-am-disappoint.gif)

Seriously, though, navy is still used all the time in standard business. It's considered one of the two staple colors. I'm wearing navy linen trousers right now, so clearly by extension they are the height of fashion and you should hope to emulate it someday; for now, be content to bask in their brilliant indigo aura.

Some people still swing dance, too. That's cool. I'm not saying it's wrong, just that it's not done anymore.

Full black tie, white tie, or morning suits are almost never seen around here unless you're in the groom's party or unspeakably posh. The most formal event I'm likely to find myself at is a theatre awards dinner for which a black lounge suit is ideal.

wordsmythe wrote:

Some people still swing dance, too. That's cool. I'm not saying it's wrong, just that it's not done anymore.

....I think you haven't gotten out much. Look outside your insular hipster bubble, my friend. There is a lot of navy. Especially in NYC, but most other major districts as well.

This article is a really cool read. Unfortunately about the only way to get a 3-pc nowadays is bespoken. Or KFC.

Minarchist wrote:
wordsmythe wrote:

Some people still swing dance, too. That's cool. I'm not saying it's wrong, just that it's not done anymore.

....I think you haven't gotten out much. Look outside your insular hipster bubble, my friend. There is a lot of navy. Especially in NYC, but most other major districts as well.

I bet it's pleated, too.

wordsmythe wrote:
Minarchist wrote:
wordsmythe wrote:

Some people still swing dance, too. That's cool. I'm not saying it's wrong, just that it's not done anymore.

....I think you haven't gotten out much. Look outside your insular hipster bubble, my friend. There is a lot of navy. Especially in NYC, but most other major districts as well.

I bet it's pleated, too.

Maybe, sometimes. It's worth noting that I was inside your city today and saw all kinds of navy on business-types. So, nyeah.

It took 4 weeks, but my bespoke shirts from elitesuits.com arrived today.

Very happy so far. Stitching all seems faultless, the cloth is of excellent quality and worth the premium to get the upgrade and overall I am very happy with the purchase.

It's all about the fit, though, and the fit is superb.

Bruce wrote:

It took 4 weeks, but my bespoke shirts from elitesuits.com arrived today.

Very happy so far. Stitching all seems faultless, the cloth is of excellent quality and worth the premium to get the upgrade and overall I am very happy with the purchase.

It's all about the fit, though, and the fit is superb.

How much were the shirts, if you don't mind me asking?

I paid AU$200 for 3.

So that probably works out to about US$71 per shirt.

Boy howdy, eBay has been very very good to me lately. Picked up two Pal Zileri "gruppo forall" jackets (their second-best line, anything below it is fused crap) for under $15 each, a suit of the same make for under $30, a Linea Pitti cashmere blend blazer for $20, and a Piatelli cashmere blend suit for $60. Oh, and two pairs of Allen Edmonds calfskin loafers for $30 each. Stumble into a couple estate sales in your size and you have it made.

...And now I think I'm done for a while, or the wife will have my head.

You made me buy 4 ties from that website, I almost bought several more. Hoping they're nice.

My nickname around the neighborhood was Dapper Dan Simpson since I used to play little league with the Simpson team and would wear a bunch of Simpson t-shirts. I didn't like that nickname though.

Apropos of nothing, here's a website with awesome looking Western and "Victorian" (read: Steampunk) attire for sale.

I'm going to take that "Dan(ielle)" part here seriously, folks.

I complained about one of my least/most favorite shirts here a while ago. In my on again/off again quest to frump a little better, this last weekend I came upon a shirt at Value Village.

It's got a tag in it that just says "Rocky's" and a monogram on the left cuff. A little Google-fu showed this to be a custom tailor in Sherman Oaks, CA. The fabric is some sort of gorgeous basket-weave stuff with a nice heavy hand to it. Add in the proper French cuffs, and it was sold (the fact that it cost me three bucks didn't hurt, either).

The problem is it looks like whoever had it before me used it as part of a costume. It has what looks like hot pink hair-color spray on the collar and both the cuffs, and some other random smutches in colors that don't occur in nature.

Any suggestions for cleaning it?

Dry-clean. But not just any dry-cleaner, as most of them are terrible and destroy clothes.

Go to either the nicest menswear store in town or the nicest consignment clothing store. Ask them, if they received an otherwise excellent piece of merchandise that had a stain, where would they take it to get it cleaned so that they could put it on the floor for full price?

And that's the story of how Minarchist found a dry-cleaner in Nashville that didn't suck.

Seriously, though, a good dry-cleaner should be able to tackle that, for pretty cheap. Take it to them to get it stain-treated, then never take it to them again. Instead, wash with cold water and hang-dry. Since I've started doing this my shirts last 3x as long. The cleaners commercial washers and presses just disintegrate clothes, and home tumble-dryers aren't much better.

Oh by the way, TM Lewin currently has most men's shirts either at $30 or 5 for $160 for the more expensive ones, and women's shirts starting at $24. They aren't great, but they're better than most anything you would buy in a mall-anchor department store, especially for that price. Be sure to follow laundering instructions laid out in the previous post, however, as they will shrink badly if you don't. Also note that their "slim fit" is okay, and their "fully fitted" may be the best-fitting off-the-rack shirt in existence for the fit and trim individual.

Minarchist wrote:

Dry-clean. But not just any dry-cleaner, as most of them are terrible and destroy clothes.

Go to either the nicest menswear store in town or the nicest consignment clothing store. Ask them, if they received an otherwise excellent piece of merchandise that had a stain, where would they take it to get it cleaned so that they could put it on the floor for full price?

And that's the story of how Minarchist found a dry-cleaner in Nashville that didn't suck.

Seriously, though, a good dry-cleaner should be able to tackle that, for pretty cheap. Take it to them to get it stain-treated, then never take it to them again. Instead, wash with cold water and hang-dry. Since I've started doing this my shirts last 3x as long. The cleaners commercial washers and presses just disintegrate clothes, and home tumble-dryers aren't much better.

The cold water's what I would do with it under normal circumstances. That's how I care for most of my few fancier pieces. But the fact I don't know the actual makeup of the fabric had me fozzled. I guess I was hoping there was another special trick I didn't know -- I generally don't buy or wear anything that couldn't be washed in a stream by pounding on it with a rock.

I have a good cleaner, though I found it a different way. I found it by asking around where I should get my daughter's wedding dress cleaned and archived. They can cope with lipstick on white silk, so we'll see what they can do here.

http://www.thetiebar.com

My Review:

I got 4 ties. 1 Striped, 3 patterned. The striped tie is damaged enough I wouldn't wear it to an interview. There are little threads and knicks around the tie that are obvious from looking at it. The 3 patterned ones are fine since any knicks don't show because of the pattern.

They are otherwise good quality and nice colors. There was a good selection and I got a few inexpensive ties I quite like.

Damaged on shipping, or did it happen afterward? That's a pretty small-time outfit and the guy who runs the place will bend over backwards to please you, so if you take pics of the damage and explain how it happened he'll probably refund you and ship you a new one for free.

Remember that with any 100% silk tie you have to be careful about snagging, because the fibers are so super-fine. Even loose dry skin on your cuticle can be enough. But if it's showing that obviously right after purchase, you should probably return it.

My typical work "uniform" for the last couple of years has been years and a polo, and very occasionally replacing those with khakis and/or a dress shirt. But my jeans and polos are kind of warn at this point, so since I need to buy new clothes anyway, I figured I might change it up a bit. Nicer stuff, for personal satisfaction, and because I'm single again: want to look nice for the ladies :D.

I ran to Boscov's a couple of weekends ago. Everything was on sale, so I got 2 pair of slacks, 2 pair of khakis 2 dress shirts, a "nice casual" shirt and a new polo for a couple hundred dollars. I felt weird totally changing to khakis and dress shirts immediately, so I've been still wearing jeans, but wearing the new shirts. The polo, and nice-casual shirt fit well and look decent, but I'm kind of disappointed with the dress shirts. They feel ok, and look decent on me, but the quality just isn't what I'm used to. My go to place for nicer clothing has been Jos. A. Bank ever since I first found it about 8 years ago, so most of my nicer stuff is from there, and you can definitely tell the difference.

So yeah, that's a long winded way to tag, and throw Jos. A. Bank on the pile of good clothing shops. Since work has been so casual, it's been a while since I needed nice clothes, so I haven't shopped there recently. There prices are quite a bit higher than I remember, so I must have gotten stuff on sale. Still, it's high quality, comfortable stuff, so check them out.