So I moved to Seattle

Paleocon wrote:

Folks who lived in Ballard were barely tolerated as dwellers of the cultural wasteland.

It's strange to me to hear about Ballard being a "hip" place. I lived in various places around Seattle in the mid to late 90s and always liked Ballard for its blue collar, non-trendiness. I guess it reminded me of here in Eastern Washington where I grew up. You know, over hear east of the "east side."

fleabagmatt wrote:
Paleocon wrote:

Folks who lived in Ballard were barely tolerated as dwellers of the cultural wasteland.

It's strange to me to hear about Ballard being a "hip" place. I lived in various places around Seattle in the mid to late 90s and always liked Ballard for its blue collar, non-trendiness. I guess it reminded me of here in Eastern Washington where I grew up. You know, over hear east of the "east side." :D

Ballard wasn't hip when I was there. The only thing out there was the Firehouse.

I meant it seems to be considered hip now. I haven't been there since I moved away 15 years ago, so I'm sure it's nothing like it used to be. Growing up far away from a large city I've always felt at home in the cultural wasteland.

I've only been to Ballard a few times for Card Kingdom but it definitely has a reasonably hip vibe.

fleabagmatt wrote:

I meant it seems to be considered hip now. I haven't been there since I moved away 15 years ago, so I'm sure it's nothing like it used to be. Growing up far away from a large city I've always felt at home in the cultural wasteland.

Hence the "Ballard welcomes it's new condo overlords" car stickers you see around. The area has gentrified big time in the last 10 years. Loads of condos gone up, bars, restaurants etc. I work with a guy who's been a long-time resident of Ballard for 20+ years, and I've heard him rant about it on many an occasion.

It's still got some blue-collar vibe to it, and the areas along the waterfront are still lined with working warehouses and such. But the property prices are ludicrous there now - we couldn't afford a reasonable sized house there when we were looking last year.

Jonman wrote:
fleabagmatt wrote:

I meant it seems to be considered hip now. I haven't been there since I moved away 15 years ago, so I'm sure it's nothing like it used to be. Growing up far away from a large city I've always felt at home in the cultural wasteland.

Hence the "Ballard welcomes it's new condo overlords" car stickers you see around. The area has gentrified big time in the last 10 years. Loads of condos gone up, bars, restaurants etc. I work with a guy who's been a long-time resident of Ballard for 20+ years, and I've heard him rant about it on many an occasion.

It's still got some blue-collar vibe to it, and the areas along the waterfront are still lined with working warehouses and such. But the property prices are ludicrous there now - we couldn't afford a reasonable sized house there when we were looking last year.

Ballard's changed tremendously. It's nice to have shiny new shops and condos, but I'm still mourning the real Ballard.

Property is ridiculous everywhere, though. Ballard just caught up with the rest of the city.

Wow I had no idea it was a blue collar neighborhood.

Paleocon wrote:

I don't know if this is still true, but when I was living there, there seemed to be a great deal of local snobbishness regarding whether or not you lived "close enough to the action" to be part of it. Folks who lived in Hellvue were the despised "Eastsiders". Folks who lived in Ballard were barely tolerated as dwellers of the cultural wasteland. Living in Belltown, Capitol Hill or even the ID put you in the envied category of folks who were in it.

If that's the sort of crowd you want to run with, then yes.

But as far as "it" goes, Seattle still has the insecurities of an overlooked middle child. Not as gritty-hip as Portland, not as sophisticated as Vancouver or San Francisco. So all that rings a little more hollow here than, say, the east coast or California. Forget the poseurs.

gregrampage wrote:

Wow I had no idea it was a blue collar neighborhood.

It was a fishing town, originally (and still). Go along the water near the old town, or down Market past 24th, and you'll see signs in the windows of the marine shops with things like "Visit our new Dutch Harbor location". The Bardahl Oil sign is a marine relic too.

All the crabbing boats you see on The Deadliest Catch moor at Fisherman's Terminal in the off-season. Seattle is basically the largest town in Alaska.

Yeah I did notice all of that, I guess it's not that surprising.

Welcome to Seattle. I highly recommend the above mentioned Freemont/Ballard/Wallingford area. Freemont preferably. Allot of color and places to go (Googel and Adobe branches down there...and more. So ya got your 'earther's and techies having fun with each other). Nice canal to walk along (or run, ride bicycle etc. 'Course there's Golden Garden's beach area West of Ballard too!). Great food and drink and easy access to the the City. Close to the University district to walk around a campus that is like a park (upper campus i.e.). Also, 'cause it is a big University, lot's of ethnic shops to shop in. I enjoy University Village. Great Ambiance. Nice eats. Apple Store, Barnes and Noble, Starbucks etc. etc. Nice little fountain to hang around and on and on.

Hope you have an enjoyable stay. I had to move from Seattle to the South, West of Tacoma. I miss the City.

Based on the advice so far, I'm leaning towards Ravenna. Looks that would be a 30 minute bus ride to work, which isn't too bad.

Jonman wrote:

If you're looking at a mile from your job, you're really looking at Belltown, the International District or the lower side of Capitol Hill (i.e. First Hill). So, probably on the pricier side, but with no shortage of apartments to choose from.

I suppose it depends on what counts as pricey. I will be making more than I was, so I could afford more, but I don't want to burn the difference on just housing. If I can pay less for the same apartment (or alternatively, get more apartment for the same price), and bus it, then I may do that instead. Pike's Place does looks pretty awesome, but I suppose there is no reason I couldn't take the occasional trip down there anyway.

clover wrote:

Most shuls here are Orthodox. Might feel weird if you're not so frummy.

Seems like that's the case in general. Reminds me of Pikesville, MD, but less concentrated.

I prefer largely traditional, but egalitarian practice / services, so I've typically been most comfortable in Conservative shuls, and occasionally Reform. That would put me in Ravenna, or possibly Capitol Hill. The MO shul in Ravenna describes themselves as "Orthodox-Egalitarian", so that might be an option as well. A Sephardi synagogue might be fine also, but I honestly don't know what to expect.

Ravenna is great. I live a little north of there in Maple Leaf and love it. Ravenna has a lot more going on, it seems. Definitely more shops and places to walk.

Garden Ninja wrote:
Jonman wrote:

If you're looking at a mile from your job, you're really looking at Belltown, the International District or the lower side of Capitol Hill (i.e. First Hill). So, probably on the pricier side, but with no shortage of apartments to choose from.

I suppose it depends on what counts as pricey. I will be making more than I was, so I could afford more, but I don't want to burn the difference on just housing. If I can pay less for the same apartment (or alternatively, get more apartment for the same price), and bus it, then I may do that instead. Pike's Place does looks pretty awesome, but I suppose there is no reason I couldn't take the occasional trip down there anyway.

For figuring out what pricey means, find the zip of the area you're interested in, then plug it into here. Might not give you a particularly good range of places, but it'll at least give you an idea of the price range you'll be encountering.

It's been many a year since I rented downtown, but the 1 bedroom studio I had in Belltown in 2004 ran $1000/month.

Jonman wrote:

Hence the "Ballard welcomes it's new condo overlords" car stickers you see around.

Well, they needed something to cover up those sun faded "Uff Da!" stickers.

IMAGE(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2402/2277741629_11e31afdb5.jpg)

IMAGE(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2035/2277890748_4a24c0809b.jpg)

Garden Ninja wrote:

Based on the advice so far, I'm leaning towards Ravenna. Looks that would be a 30 minute bus ride to work, which isn't too bad.

Jonman wrote:

If you're looking at a mile from your job, you're really looking at Belltown, the International District or the lower side of Capitol Hill (i.e. First Hill). So, probably on the pricier side, but with no shortage of apartments to choose from.

I suppose it depends on what counts as pricey. I will be making more than I was, so I could afford more, but I don't want to burn the difference on just housing. If I can pay less for the same apartment (or alternatively, get more apartment for the same price), and bus it, then I may do that instead. Pike's Place does looks pretty awesome, but I suppose there is no reason I couldn't take the occasional trip down there anyway.

The median 1-bed rent for Seattle is ~$1000/mo. A studio in Belltown, Capitol Hill, South Lake Union, or First Hill will run you between $750-$1400. A 1-bed will be $900-1800. Capitol Hill and First Hill have units across the range, Belltown/downtown/SLU will be on the higher end.

Ravenna, Roosevelt, Green Lake, etc. are in the same range but most units fall in the middle.

Garden Ninja wrote:

I prefer largely traditional, but egalitarian practice / services, so I've typically been most comfortable in Conservative shuls, and occasionally Reform. That would put me in Ravenna, or possibly Capitol Hill. The MO shul in Ravenna describes themselves as "Orthodox-Egalitarian", so that might be an option as well. A Sephardi synagogue might be fine also, but I honestly don't know what to expect.

That's my inclination; you can PM me for a shopping list

I did a bit of apartment hunting yesterday, and the range pretty much matches what you guys said. Except for one place, possibly, that I couldn't find prices for at all. They do tend to be on the small size though. I have 800 square feet currently, and that is enough for just me and my stuff, but I don't think I'd want to go much smaller than that. Although, honestly, I really care more about a decent kitchen (I miss being able to cook; my current kitchen is tiny and poorly laid out), so if I can get that, then less space is probably fine.

I'd forgotten how much that fish-eye 360 view makes everything look distorted and larger than it actually is. I'm going to have to rely on looking at floor plans and square footage to gauge how much space a place will have.

When I was living in Seattle, I had a bedroom in an 8 bedroom duplex in Ravenna right on the Burke Gilman (On Blakesley). It was entirely populated by UW grad students (except me. I was going to SU at the time). And we were all paying the insanely low rent of $300/month.

We were the most hated people in Seattle.

Paleocon wrote:

When I was living in Seattle, I had a bedroom in an 8 bedroom duplex in Ravenna right on the Burke Gilman (On Blakesley). It was entirely populated by UW grad students (except me. I was going to SU at the time). And we were all paying the insanely low rent of $300/month.

We were the most hated people in Seattle.

I lived at a place like that in college. 10-person co-op, and the $300 per month included food. Chores were shared, everything was common space except for the bedrooms, and it was the midwest, so cost of living was lower in general, but still $300 a month including food was a dang good deal.

Remember, Seattle is earthquake country.

It pained my father to see my sister living on the 4th floor of a brick building on Queen Anne. Fantastic access to everything with that $1000/month studio though.

I'll throw in a shout out for Greenwood. I live near Greenwood and 92nd so I get easy walking access to grocery stores, restaurants (including the fantastic Naked City Brewery), a couple game stores and a Fred Meyer. The 5 bus line runs right down greenwood toward downtown which is great for commuting, and Ballard, Northgate and Fremont are just a hop away.
I really like it here.

Niltrope wrote:

I'll throw in a shout out for Greenwood. I live near Greenwood and 92nd so I get easy walking access to grocery stores, restaurants (including the fantastic Naked City Brewery), a couple game stores and a Fred Meyer. The 5 bus line runs right down greenwood toward downtown which is great for commuting, and Ballard, Northgate and Fremont are just a hop away.
I really like it here.

I'd second this. Lots of stuff to do there, plus, easy to get to anywhere by bus.

I'll leave you guys to this - I live out here in East Sherwood Forest, in the suburb of Underhill (Redmond, by Education Hill). Doesn't fit any of the "walk to get to cool stuff" criteria, but if you don't mind bussing, it's surprisingly easy to get to what you would call real life - Microsoft has seriously worked with the transit system to get their people in and out. I used to live in West Seattle and commute out here and it wasn't all that bad. Of course, now that I work from home my commute is about three feet and my entire life can fit within a 3 mile radius on most days, I wouldn't go back.

Paleocon wrote:

When I was living in Seattle, I had a bedroom in an 8 bedroom duplex in Ravenna right on the Burke Gilman (On Blakesley). It was entirely populated by UW grad students (except me. I was going to SU at the time). And we were all paying the insanely low rent of $300/month.

We were the most hated people in Seattle.

Alas, unstoppable progress has likely torn down your old place (along with my beloved 7-Eleven)... there's several blocks of shiny new plazas from 55th to UVillage now.

Garden Ninja wrote:

I did a bit of apartment hunting yesterday, and the range pretty much matches what you guys said. Except for one place, possibly, that I couldn't find prices for at all. They do tend to be on the small size though. I have 800 square feet currently, and that is enough for just me and my stuff, but I don't think I'd want to go much smaller than that. Although, honestly, I really care more about a decent kitchen (I miss being able to cook; my current kitchen is tiny and poorly laid out), so if I can get that, then less space is probably fine.

I'd forgotten how much that fish-eye 360 view makes everything look distorted and larger than it actually is. I'm going to have to rely on looking at floor plans and square footage to gauge how much space a place will have.

If you're getting down to specific buildings, post the names... some have great management, some have exceptionally poor managers

800sf in Ravenna/Roosevelt/Wedgwood will run you ~$1400 in a newer building, or ~$900 in an older building.

The new construction has nice kitchens and finishes, so you may want to consider a smaller unit in a new building.

clover wrote:
Garden Ninja wrote:

I did a bit of apartment hunting yesterday, and the range pretty much matches what you guys said. Except for one place, possibly, that I couldn't find prices for at all. They do tend to be on the small size though. I have 800 square feet currently, and that is enough for just me and my stuff, but I don't think I'd want to go much smaller than that. Although, honestly, I really care more about a decent kitchen (I miss being able to cook; my current kitchen is tiny and poorly laid out), so if I can get that, then less space is probably fine.

I'd forgotten how much that fish-eye 360 view makes everything look distorted and larger than it actually is. I'm going to have to rely on looking at floor plans and square footage to gauge how much space a place will have.

If you're getting down to specific buildings, post the names... some have great management, some have exceptionally poor managers

800sf in Ravenna/Roosevelt/Wedgwood will run you ~$1400 in a newer building, or ~$900 in an older building.

The new construction has nice kitchens and finishes, so you may want to consider a smaller unit in a new building.

I've found a few. Comparing at walking distance to Cong. Beth Shalom versus bus ride time to work, it looks most options give you one or the other. At this point, I'd favor short work commute, since that's everyday, and I could always get a bicycle (which I need to get anyway) and bike to shul. Plus, I'm sure I'll get a car again eventually. Some places I am immediately discounting based on the reviews that Google maps shows you. I also don't want to be that weird 30 year old who hangs out near college students, so I'm favoring things at least a bit off campus. I'm also skipping, for the moment, any place for which Google Maps doesn't list a website.

Radford Court
6301 65th Avenue Northeast
Seattle, WA 98115-7952

Bus to work: 57 min. / Walk to CBS: 39 min.

Right off of Magnuson Park and Lake Washington, so it probably has a nice view, but it's kind of off in the corner.

Ravenna Park Place
5901 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle, WA

Bus to work: 46 min. / Walk to CBS: 28 min.

Long commute, since it isn't right on the busline, so I'd have a walk a few blocks to the stop. Hesitant to pursue this, since the site doesn't seem to actually show the floor plans.

Corydon
5101 25th Avenue Northeast
Seattle, WA 98105

Bus to work: 42 min. / Walk to CBS: 28 min.

Decent looking floor plans, but on the long end commute-wise. At least 1 very-unhappy review.

Strada 67
6619 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle, WA 98115

Bus to work: 36 min. / Walk to CBS: 30 min.

2 blocks to the bus line. Right off the I-5, so it would be the closest to the other neighborhoods. However, the website doesn't show floor plans or list square footage, and the pictures they have make it look kind of cramped.

Saxe
2402 NE 65th St
Seattle, WA 98115-1301

Bus to work: 36 min. / Walk to CBS: 16 min.

This is the one I'm leaning towards. Right on the bus line, and close to Ravenna Park. Looks like it's more in the middle of things. Decent looking floor plans. Only issue is that the website doesn't list rates, but presumably they are in the same range.

Anyone have any experience with these? I'm certainly not tied to any of these, so if someone has another suggestion, I'd love to hear it.

Wait. I live in Madison and also just got a job in Seattle. However, I convinced them that I can do the work remotely with occasional trips to the Emerald City (isn't that its nickname?).

Are you sure you're not an alternate universe version of me? Do you also have an 11 year old beagle-lab mutt?

Radford Court:
Nice if you mostly bike because it's right on the Burke, but unless you work at UW or Children's Hospital it feels like the ass-end of town... you have to take the bus everywhere. Nowhere to walk to except the park. No late-night buses.

Ravenna Park:
In between two neighborhoods, which could be nice or irritating because you always have to hike to fun. Building's fairly new, but I don't know anything about the management here. 5 blocks from Whole Foods. On the 66 if you don't feel like walking to the 71/72/73. Has gas fireplaces which are cool, but then you have to get edumacated about gas mains and earthquakes

Corydon:
Shiny new building, close to the uber-QFC, lots of nearby conveniences (banks, restaurants, Apple Store). Commuting will indeed be more of a pain. Your neighbors will be largely university students with mom and dad paying the bills... negative reviews are probably related to that. There's a liquor store in one of the retail bays, but they keep it classy.

Strada 67:
Don't rent here. Management and maintenance is... yeah. Don't rent here.

Saxe:
"Downtown" Ravenna. Studios are renting for ~$1195 right now, I think the 1-beds are $1495. Cushy kitchens. I used to manage the bagel shop up the block (the good one). This one (and Varsity Court) are the only ones inside the eruv, if that's a factor.

::

Varsity Court:
Wasn't on your list, but next to the Saxe. Prices and details are similar. On top of a piano school and my favorite Thai restaurant.

I also toured this building a couple years ago and it was decent, though older than the ones above.

This neighborhood has a lot of small buildings and houses with attached units, so Craigslist should turn up a few more.

Trashie wrote:

Wait. I live in Madison and also just got a job in Seattle. However, I convinced them that I can do the work remotely with occasional trips to the Emerald City (isn't that its nickname?).

Are you sure you're not an alternate universe version of me? Do you also have an 11 year old beagle-lab mutt?

Living in Madison while getting paid like you live in Seattle would be a sweet deal. Well done