I have placed an order for a Prusa MK3S. Hoping to get it in June.
Awesome.
Are you still using your Flashforge or did it die?
-BEP
Anybody print 1/12 scale weapons? How did it go?
Skraut wrote:The Spaghetti Detective https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/
I haven't had a part fail since starting it, so I don't know how well it works.
Any update on this? Anything fail, yet?
-BEP
So far I haven't had any actual failures, as I've spent a while with my printer down for the Mk3 to Mk3s upgrade.
I have had a few times where the Spaghetti Detective paused a print because it thought it saw a failure. What it actually saw was a stray wire or cable. So if nothing else, the Spaghetti Detective has forced me to clean up the are around my 3d printer.
I just finished printing this beauty from The Lost Dragon kickstarter (not my pic):
I need to glue it together, but some of the joints are not fitted great. With the wings being so huge and the joint not being perfect, I don't want to use just super glue to glue it. Do you guys have some alternate glue or epoxy that you use on 3D Prints that holds really well?
-BEP
For size reference, this is the Shadow Dragon next to a normal sized mini. Don't mind the live Owlbear in the background:
This is that Shadow Dragon on the build plate next to the wing of the Frost Dragon I'm about to assemble:
These are the pieces of the Frost Dragon lying on the build plate:
-BEP
Oh, and here are some clamps I printed.
Thingaverse Link
They have come in handy for holding small items I've glued together.
-BEP
karmajay wrote:I have placed an order for a Prusa MK3S. Hoping to get it in June.
Awesome.
Are you still using your Flashforge or did it die?
-BEP
I have not used it much do to the build plate size and just got so irritated with that cr10s. Also, at some point I switched my supports to the zig zags vice trees but that was making it impossible for larger prints to not have issues when I tried to remove the supports. I may try again this weekend but with tree supports instead so I can get back into it.
I've printed a lot of different dragon parts now with Danny Herrero's support settings I linked on the last page and I am very happy with the improvement it has made to my prints. Supports are soooo much easier to remove, now.
You may want to give it a shot before going back to tree supports.
-BEP
I need to glue it together, but some of the joints are not fitted great. With the wings being so huge and the joint not being perfect, I don't want to use just super glue to glue it. Do you guys have some alternate glue or epoxy that you use on 3D Prints that holds really well?
It hit me that I had E6000 out in the garage that I use for my jewelry making hobby. I decided to give it a shot on the big dragon. I glued a couple pieces together and will check how well it did tomorrow.
-BEP
bepnewt wrote:I need to glue it together, but some of the joints are not fitted great. With the wings being so huge and the joint not being perfect, I don't want to use just super glue to glue it. Do you guys have some alternate glue or epoxy that you use on 3D Prints that holds really well?
It hit me that I had E6000 out in the garage that I use for my jewelry making hobby. I decided to give it a shot on the big dragon. I glued a couple pieces together and will check how well it did tomorrow.
-BEP
Just my experience with E6000 it needs like 24 hours to 100% cure.
Just my experience with E6000 it needs like 24 hours to 100% cure.
So true. If I ever give someone a pendant with a recently glued bail on it, I make sure they know not to put any pressure on it for 24-48 hours.
That being said, I was happy with the results this morning. I like that the E6000 fills in the gaps where the pieces didn't quite fit right. While it was still soft after application, I used my fingernail to sculpt/smooth the stuff.
As long as the primer sticks to it, I think this is going to be a great solution.
-BEP
Re: Supports. The first pic is the tail of the dragon I just printed right after it finished. The second pic is the tail popped off of the supports with the bottom of the tail showing, which is the part that was face down during printing.
Don't mind the stringing - it's set not to worry about retraction while making supports when the nozzle doesn't cross the model itself.
There's still a little bit of cleanup to do, but it's really me just prying off the little support pieces with my fingernail.
-BEP
After this one, I'll stop hogging the thread...
This is the dragon all glued up.
Well, almost all glued up. There are 3 connection points between the dragon and the base that aren't glued, yet.
-BEP
Keep posting please!
We recently got a 3D printer, a monoprice maker select plus, here at work and I was appointed as the person to figure it out. So far so good, I got decent prints out of it but watching the two videos linked on the previous page, really took those prints up a notch in quality. I use the latest version of Cura, btw.
I do have some stuff to figure out that I thought maybe the GWJ hivemind could help answer.
What is the difference between all the different methods of support. Should I use one over the other?
I get gaps in the bottom layer of the prints, and I can't seem to figure out which setting I should increase or decrease to fix this. Suggestions?
Right now I use an infill of 40%. One of the videos suggested 100% (or rather the 99999999 trick) and another said "40 - 60 is fine". What has your experience been with this?
Supports
I started with normal supports. I think they were set to Zig-Zag and I don't remember the "fill" on them. I think if you can get the temperature correct for the particular filament you're using and get speed and every other parameter dialed in, they probably work great. I was having issues where it left too much material stuck to my print. Frustrating clean up.
That's when I tried the experimental Tree supports. These generally worked better for me. They didn't stick as much to my models at first, but then later they did. I was messing around with settings a lot and I don't do it methodically so I have no idea what was causing it. One roll of PLA to the next will work best at different temps, even up to 10*C different.
I recently switched to the support settings that Danny Herrero uses for his minis. I'm mainly printing minis right now, so they work really well for me. On non-mini prints, I would put more thought into what support type makes sense for that print. The thing that helps with Danny's config is making the part where the support touches the model like a "bed". I don't recall the setting name, though.
I'm pretty much a n00b so can't give you good in-depth advice. If you're watching videos, you're on the right path. That's how I learned everything. I always look at the Preview in Cura, sliding the layer thing up and down to see how it's going to print the thing, which helps me understand what's going on.
If I were you, I would check out Tree supports and use them a few times to see the difference.
Infill
I would stay away from the 9999999 / 100% tricks. Most things you print won't need to be fully filled. Even the minis I print don't need to be fully filled and they are (generally) small. Hopefully, I linked the video of the guy at Fat Dragon Games where he went into a little detail on why you don't want to do 100% infill even for minis and why doing a .04 layer height isn't going to be better than a 0.8 or even 1.2 layer height. I'm now printing most minis at 1.2 and they looks great.
In general, I print between 8% and 15% infill. I've printed some things higher, but that's my baseline. I added pics of some clamps I made above - one of them was printed with (somewhere around) 40%(?) infill, the rest with maybe 12%. I can tell which is which because of the weight, but there is virtually no different in how sturdy they are so I think the 40% was wasted filament. You just need to test our different infills out and determine what you think is needed. I was originally told to go with 20% to start and go higher if needed. I haven't seen much where higher than 15% is going to help me with what I'm doing.
Gaps at the Bottom
Maybe it's underextrusion? Pics would definitely be helpful here. I can guess as well as the next guy, but again, I'm a n00b.
If there is a FaceBook group for your printer and you use FaceBook, posting there should get you a lot of help. If there isn't one for your printer, then find a general 3D printing one.
-BEP
https://www.humblebundle.com/books/3...
Humble is having 3D Printing bundle right now with a bunch of 3D printable DnD tile sets
Nice! Thanks!
What BRAND of filament are people using?
I'm using mainly Hatchbox. One of my rolls is a different brand because the color I wanted was out of stock.
I don't have any good reason to use it except for it being a good price from Amazon and I don't have issues with it.
I did have issues a while back when I quit printing for a while, but they magically went away when I switched filaments. I don't know if it was the filament for sure or if there was a small clog that cleared at the same time or what... That roll was "3D Solutech" brand, color Brown.
-BEP
Same, I use Hatchbox and have had no issues that I could attribute to the filament.
I've also tried some wood filament, but I'd have to go dig up the brand name. Had more issues with that, but it could just be the fact it's wood-like.
We use Maker Bot filament here at work and it's fine. Got a 10 pack for a good price. It has a higher melting point, but it works well enough.
We've been using Hatchbox at my previous and current jobs.
I ended up getting Prusa i3 mk3 and am now just waiting for the 'S' upgrade kit. A friend really liked the mimics from Prey so I made her this:
Mimic by Daniel MacGibbon, on Flickr
The hashtag on the hat was an inside joke of no relevance 
That’s great.
-BEP
Hatchbox and CCTree for me. I had some trouble with the Hatchbox Grey for some reason. It jsut would not print well for me after a while. Maybe I'll give it another go with the figures I just downloaded
Oh, Heroforge is having a May sale right now. Downloaded figures are only $7.99
The CC3D Gold is beautiful and really nicely priced if you're looking for a gold.
That gold does look good.
I _just_ bought a roll of Hatchbox gray and I've had some problems. I've been having some weird leveling issues again so I'm not ready to blame the filament at this point. After I figure out the weirdness with leveling I will focus on the gray.
My buddy was an early adopter of 3D Printing. I mean _early_. His first 3D printer had issues out the wazoo, but it was expected back then. Since that printer that was retired early, he has bought a Monoprice Select Mini v2, a Creality CR-10s, and 2 Ender 3s.
He loved the Ender 3 printer so much he sold his CR-10s to a buddy of ours after making a lot of upgrades. And, the Mini V2 was relegated to the corner.
I was testing my friends who 3D print pics of the latest dragons I was printing and mentioned I wish I could justify an Ender 3 so I could be printing stuff while the big dragon pieces were printing. He texted me back and asked if I wanted his Mini V2. Wow! Heck, yeah, I'll use it!
So, while I've been printing dragon parts on my Tornado, I've been sending random miniatures to the Mini V2 off and on. It works great for the minis. I'm having some slight adhesion issues, but Sean (buddy who gave it to me) gave me a right-sized glass bed and the clips to hold it on along with some spacer things to help the printers deal with the difference in bed height.
It is definitely nice having a second printer, even if the bed size is real small like the Mini V2. At least this will keep me from spending money I don't have on another printer right now...
-BEP
I ordered my Prusa i3 MK3 -> MK3S upgrade kit on February 14th. It showed up at the end of March. I got around to printing the upgrade pieces a month ago. And tonight, I finally sat down to actually do the upgrade.
Ho boy did that take WAY LONGER than I thought it would.
Heads up for anyone else looking at it, you're basically disassembling and completely rebuilding the extruder, and the only parts you'll be carrying forward are the expensive hard parts - fans, stepper motor, PINDA probe, and hotend assembly. It'll take a solid afternoon.
I still have to do the cold pre-flight checks, then boot it up, flash it to the MK3S firmware, and run the hot tests before I can get back up to printing.
All the leftover parts o.0
I've been getting the Maker Box "Everything" (warning, affiliate link) for the last few months, and had always been on the fence about what the print with 50-60g of a given material. Just to start using some of these, I decided to print out test swatches, and found a fully customizable one on Thingiverse.
This is one and a half sets of the "Easy" package, with 3D Fuel Standard PLA and FilaCube PLA2, with the only changes I've made to filament settings in my slicer are for cost/kg and printing/bed temps.
Ok... how do you customize those "Customizable" things on Thingiverse?
Never mind, there's a literal button on the page.
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