This Old #%&@*$ House

Rainsmercy wrote:

So question if anyone may have an answer I'd be grateful. I haven't had a toilet in my basement bathroom in a year and a half, so there has been no water flushed down that drain pipe. Will this cause problems when I install the new toilet this weekend and start using it?

I wouldn't think so. Our house had a drain line roughed into the basement when it was built, and it wasn't used for almost 30 years. I finally finished the basement a couple of years ago, and installed a toilet onto that line. It worked fine. PVC piping is pretty sturdy.

60 year old house, not sure its pvc.......

Rainsmercy wrote:

60 year old house, not sure its pvc.......

Shouldn't be an issue unless the pipe moved and cracked. Only way you are going to find that out is by using it or having a camera video done to inspect the line to the street.

If it is a clay tile drain and you have a leak, you can get it lined. High Density lining is used to and connected back to the main. That is kind of expensive. You'd have the option of digging and replacing the failure point as well, which is more traditional.

Are you able to test it with regular water flushing ahead of time? Pour down with hose or bucket and check for leaks or can you not access the pipe? Otherwise either see the cost for a line camera, rent one, or have someone come out and check it.

Its in cement as it is a basement bathroom. I pulled or tore a muscle in my side yesterday, which is going to delay me installed the toilet, but will try to at least poor some water down the drain at some point in the next day or 2 to make sure at least it won't back up. So tired of old house plumbing at this point, just trying to be cautious.

33 ft snake camera for $38. works with phones. Worth looking into for plumbing issues.

I guess I'm struggling to think of a reason why not using the drain line would cause problems. I'd pour a couple of buckets down it and see if it all drains. If the floor is already finished and you're just putting a toilet back in the room, pulling it back off is easy enough to do to fix a problem on down the road.

I detest dealing with toilets/wax rings especially, but I'll try dumping a couple buckets of water down the drain.

Rainsmercy wrote:

I detest dealing with toilets/wax rings especially, but I'll try dumping a couple buckets of water down the drain.

I did a bathroom remodel last year and used a new rubber style ring rather than the traditional wax ring. Was really easy to use.

An example:

https://www.grainger.com/product/36L...

tundra wrote:
Rainsmercy wrote:

I detest dealing with toilets/wax rings especially, but I'll try dumping a couple buckets of water down the drain.

I did a bathroom remodel last year and used a new rubber style ring rather than the traditional wax ring. Was really easy to use.

An example:

https://www.grainger.com/product/36L...

Seconded. It's only about $4 more for a waxless ring, and they'll always bounce back.

And they aren't totally f*cked if you happen to put the toilet down wrong, and "nick" the ring... turning it into garbage + a trip back to the hardware store.

Totally never happened to me before... nuh-uh, nope. I was "asking for a friend"

(the next one I bought was the rubbery one... no problems)

Went through 3 of the effing things in my townhome when I had put new tile in the bathroom.

bepnewt wrote:
Chaz wrote:

My father in law has one that he brings with if we're doing a big project like laying new wood floors or something. But going to borrow it is too big a pain for medium or small projects.

When you do decide to pull the trigger on one, look at radial arm saws, too. I wish I had before getting my mitre saw. If I had bought a decent used radial arm saw it would save me from pulling out the table saw here and there. Especially now that my friend has borrowed my job-site sized table saw.

-BEP

Radial arm saws have generally been superseded by sliding miter saws. Which is not to say that the radial arm saw can be completely replaced by a slider, but you'll probably have an easier time finding a sliding miter than a full blown RAS.

So our dryer has recently started to make a sound like we're constantly trying shoes and tennis balls inside of it. Some quick research has shown that this may be due to the drum rollers and/or belt. The washer and dryer were already pretty old but we'd rather not go through the expense of a replacement. Has anyone ever tried replacing the rollers on their own? The repair kits are only like $40, so I'd rather try taking a crack at it myself and then replace the whole thing with a newer model later on.

CptDomano wrote:

So our dryer has recently started to make a sound like we're constantly trying shoes and tennis balls inside of it. Some quick research has shown that this may be due to the drum rollers and/or belt. The washer and dryer were already pretty old but we'd rather not go through the expense of a replacement. Has anyone ever tried replacing the rollers on their own? The repair kits are only like $40, so I'd rather try taking a crack at it myself and then replace the whole thing with a newer model later on.

I replaced my rollers. Our dryer was sounding awful. I thought we were drying bowling balls. Both the rollers and belt are relatively easy replacements. You need to take off the belt to replace the roller anyway. There are a ton of videos to follow too, probably one for your specific dryer.

Never replaced rollers before but a couple of years ago the belt went on our 10 year old dryer after it began making noise. It was under 10 bucks for the belt and a real easy fix after looking at youtube videos.

So almost had a second working toilet. Flushed it several times yesterday afternoon with no issue. Checked it before I went to bed and there is a slow leak from the water supply line where it connects to the tank. Sigh. So now I have to try and either get it tighter, or replace it and try again. I even used a couple layers of teflon tape on the threads.

IMAGE(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28795070_10216858317877283_3187453344794607559_n.jpg?oh=a13aa00411bd9edea9bb7e655b73f428&oe=5B0CC246)

Why is there a tazer on your toilet tank? Does it help get things moving?

Bathroom looks great, Rains!

Its a stud finder, and since I was in there it didn't find one.... I was using it to find the stud in the wall to attach the toilet paper holder to.

Next steps:
Install vanity
attach sink to vanity
put faucet on sink and connect to water supply lines
Put shower head in
Have plumber come out to fix drain pipe/connect sink to it
Have plumber replace water control unit for shower so I can connect a newer style shower lever fixture

Rainsmercy wrote:

So almost had a second working toilet. Flushed it several times yesterday afternoon with no issue. Checked it before I went to bed and there is a slow leak from the water supply line where it connects to the tank. Sigh. So now I have to try and either get it tighter, or replace it and try again. I even used a couple layers of teflon tape on the threads.

IMAGE(https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28795070_10216858317877283_3187453344794607559_n.jpg?oh=a13aa00411bd9edea9bb7e655b73f428&oe=5B0CC246)

Pick up the yellow tube of Rector Seal 5 from menards. Pipe dope and it is pretty solid at stopping leaks.

Rainsmercy wrote:

I was using [the stud finder] to find the stud in the wall to attach the toilet paper holder to.

This amuses me. Mostly because I'm imagining how hard you must be pulling on that roll to need it attached to a stud.

Hobear wrote:

Pick up the yellow tube of Rectal Seal 5 from menards. Pipe dope and it is pretty solid at stopping leaks.

Wait, what?

Chumpy_McChump wrote:
Rainsmercy wrote:

I was using [the stud finder] to find the stud in the wall to attach the toilet paper holder to.

This amuses me. Mostly because I'm imagining how hard you must be pulling on that roll to need it attached to a stud.

Hobear wrote:

Pick up the yellow tube of Rectal Seal 5 from menards. Pipe dope and it is pretty solid at stopping leaks.

Wait, what?

Needed the stud because that wall is only 1/8" wood paneling.

As far as the rectal seal, the toilet, the supply line, and the shutoff valve on the wall are all new, so I don't want to use a bandaid. If I have to put in a different supply line I will. I over engineer things for a reason damnit.

Rainsmercy wrote:
Chumpy_McChump wrote:
Hobear wrote:

Pick up the yellow tube of Rectal Seal 5 from menards. Pipe dope and it is pretty solid at stopping leaks.

Wait, what?

As far as the rectal seal, the toilet, the supply line, and the shutoff valve on the wall are all new, so I don't want to use a bandaid. If I have to put in a different supply line I will. I over engineer things for a reason damnit.

Less a bandaid, more like liquid teflon tape. Much like Franks RedHot I put this sh*t on everything, Far better, it seals or you have a damaged component in your seal. As for why it isn't sealing yeah check the seal rings. I forgot it was at the tank supply not the shutoff valve. You should only need that hand tight so you got a nicked seal or receiver.

Or its cockeyed, you have to get those things dead on, if parts aren't sitting right, it may open it up to leaks. I'll think about the Rector's, I am halfway between the Menards North of 494, and the Menards in the town you live in. There is also a third one on my way home. They have their 11% rebate sale going on right now.

There are two seals there - the water line into the tank valve, and the seal around the hole where you install the valve, inside the tank. Make sure the seal inside the tank is also seated properly.

And pipe dope isn't really a band aid - plumbers use that stuff all the time. Teflon tape isn't actually intended as a sealant.

NSMike wrote:

There are two seals there - the water line into the tank valve, and the seal around the hole where you install the valve, inside the tank. Make sure the seal inside the tank is also seated properly.

And pipe dope isn't really a band aid - plumbers use that stuff all the time. Teflon tape isn't actually intended as a sealant.

Yup, T-tape helps the threads slide across each other easier/better. Let's you tighten properly without all the effort.

Yah, I knew about the one on the tank, which was dry, I checked all around the piece that extends out of the bowl. It was the connector/line that was wet. Good to know for future, I had never heard of the stuff, only using plumber's putty for certain things and teflon tape for all water connections.

I grabbed a 12" stainless steel water supply line, previous one was 16", and attached the side to the toilet tank first, making sure to keep it straight up and down the entire time while hand tightening. Then attached it to the water supply on the wall. No issues, no leaks yesterday. Checked this morning and the bucket I put underneath it was bone dry, as was the water supply line and the bottom of the tank.

As we come back around to spring, it's time to start thinking again about where water is getting in before ending up on the basement floor. Is there a way to, like, put temporary dye on the outside of the house at potential ingress points?

wordsmythe wrote:

As we come back around to spring, it's time to start thinking again about where water is getting in before ending up on the basement floor. Is there a way to, like, put temporary dye on the outside of the house at potential ingress points?

Yup. Most basement sealing specialists can do this. They use dye packs and a butt-ton of water.

Getting the roof repair done today from the tree that fell on the house in January and a bunch of add-ons for random things I've wanted like extra outlets in halls, on the ledge above the living room for holiday lights, a gate on the side of the house for easier access to the back, new screen door and door to the screen deck w/pet access. Luckily insurance paid more than the roof repair costs so most of the extras worked out to be free.