Madden 16 Catch-All

Yeah, I try to sort by number of bids to see if I can get a feel for what people seem to actually be willing to pay.

Also, check your bronze and silvers for value before selling them. many of have crazy high style boosts and will go for significantly more. Also, your golds and elites may be part of special collections and go for more than anticipated.

Oh and I would totally put for a mini DC league thing.

muthead.com had an average sell price of $78k today on that Roby card, so I figured that'd be my ballpark. I'll probably just hang on to him though. I feel like I'd rather have a rare elite player that can actually help my team. Maybe my thinking is wrong about it though, because I do see a lot of Elite cards going for much less and obviously this card probably won't appreciate in value.

I haven't played ranked DC yet basically because of anxiety of playing PvP in this game. I can barely beat the CPU in All-Pro solos in MUT and I'm just starting to learn how to call my own plays instead of using the suggestions. Also I do enjoy the solo challenges.

I ended up selling Roby for $75k. I put it up for 68k with a buy-it-now price of $75 and it went almost instantly after I posted it. Average sale price on MUTHead was $71k at the time I posted it so I guess I made out OK, but since it literally went within 15 seconds of me posting it I feel like I should have started off with a higher buy-it-now price.

I figured after looking at what many of the older elite cards are going for now, A.) my Roby card would depreciate exponentially, and B.) I can get a lot of older elite cards for that $75k that will improve my team a lot more than one 90 OVR cornerback would. So after doing some solos tonight and selling that card, I'm sitting on around $100k.

I'll try to figure out how to post my team but I basically have mostly gold and silver players at everything but my offensive skill positions and my mike linebacker. Ideas on good elite values or where to invest just to give myself a team that is competitive?

What I tend to do is check out the Buy Now cards, and then compare them to the cards selling only as an auction. Many times you can beat the top auction prices by finding the sweet spot. No one wants to sit and bid and bid and bid. So if cards tend to go for, say $71K, I will make a buy now above that, but still below the lower Buy Now prices.

For lower priced cards, I have a set Buy Now system that I might tweak a bit depending on the card.

All uniforms, coaches, playbooks, and bronze players I set at 100/350. I figure if they go for 100, I wasn't getting any more anyway. But usually, someone will take the chance to just pay 350 to avoid repeatedly trying to beat that price. Be careful on the coaches and, particularly, the playbooks. They might be gold or elite. And the bronze players might have style boosts of +12 or +15. They will go for much more.

Silver players: I started at 150/450, but have bumped that to 200/600. You are selling to a mix of guys that want particular players and others that are snapping up players to complete sets.

Gold is where you are finally selling to a market that are buying guys they will use.

Gold players under 80 OVR, I set as 750/2300. Over 80 OVR, I go with 1200/3600. But you also need to keep an eye on values. This is where I will tweak prices higher for a variety of reasons.

When it comes to Elites, you really just have to scout the market. Player popularity can have as much to do with price as quality and and rarity.

Speaking of scouting prices. I just recently discovered that if you are looking at the cards in your collection, hitting LB will bring up the auction page of just that card. It's a great quick way to see current prices.

And current prices can be deceiving. You will get more if there are more bidders competing for cards. Think about the ending time, as that is when many of your cards will go. I do tend to go 24 hours now, because it does increase the odds of finding a bidder the will jut take your Buy Now price.

With collectibles, you never know. Sometimes it is better to just hold them awhile, depending on where they come from. Often, you are getting the cards at the same time as everyone else, and there is a glut. The Super Bowl Patches were this way. Wait a coupe weeks, and you will find folks trying to find cards you have, but with fewer cards in the market.

And if you want to make a some coin really quick? Go to the store and buy up all those cheap bronze players for 25 coins a piece. You can sell them for 350 a pop. After the 10% cut, that 315 is a 1260% markup. You can buy each player 5 times, and there are 10 (maybe more) different players.

For buying cards, I search for exactly what I need. If I have an 83 HB, I will look for elite HBs with SR style points. then I sort them into Buy Now. Then I look for the best cards I can get for the best price. I do this with every position. While I really wanted the 96 OVR Marshall Faulk, the 92 OVR DougMartin is actually insanely good. Faulk was going for 200-250K, but Martin could be had for 70K.

I use Tony Romo for my QB for the same reason. His accuracy stats are great. He won't scramble or run read options, but he can throw on the run. But for various reasons, he's cheap and easy to find. I had an 86 OVEr Romo and recently upgraded to a 92 OVR Romo. I'd love to grab a Cam Newton, but his accuracy is just not there, and he costs more than Romo.

Depending on the style you use, different players may fall into similar categories.

Wow thanks, this is the most straightforward advice I've seen for working the market. A lot of the beginner tutorials on the MUT sites load in a lot of things taken for granted that I don't really get. Like how you tell the difference between 3-4 and 4-3 defensive personnel. No idea, which is why I'm hesitant to invest in my front 7. My only elite there is an 85 CJ Moseley at MLB.

So now I'm sitting on 100k and now I'm nervous about choosing the right guys. Mo money mo problems, I guess.

I think I'm about ready to try draft champions against a real person though. I've pretty well figured out some plays and formations I like on offense, and I'm pretty decent at getting by picking defenses in MUT (although it's made easier by the fact that I have really great man coverage corners).

Here's my binder. Can't figure out how to link my current lineup without just taking screenshots (kids are watching Octonauts ATM). But what I'm really starting to discover is that building up offensive skill positions is cheap but nailing down quality defensive players is relatively pricier.

Kickers are well expensive

Also why doesn't the game come with a reset challenge button for the solo challenges? that would save so much time

I was just thinking that. Especially the challenges that set you up on defense with a few seconds left and you have to stop them from scoring. Even on rookie, it can take a few tries to stop. I'm learning you sometimes just have to cheese it with an all out blitz or a punt block play.

I got my team up to an 83 overall last night with some very mild auction house snipes. Basically shoring up my defense with some 85-87ish linebackers and D-lineman on the cheap (5000 or less, mostly gotten 2k coins or so below market value according to MUTHead) and I nailed a 91 Amari Cooper for 12,500 which I thought was a steal. He catches everything and he's so fast that I have a hard time running play action fades to him because he's out of the back of the endzone. I'm still sitting around 100k coins so I am trying to figure out what to do next here. I'm thinking I'll keep working the auction house, maybe try to flip some cards, and keep grinding out challenges. 85 OVR seems within sight now.

Walter Payton killed my poor opponent's internet connection.

Still got the win, though.

Dat spin move...

So I was using an 87 Barry Sanders that I believe I got as a freebie from MUT Rewards (like the 87 Strahan we got today). I was plowing through a few solos this afternoon when I noticed he wasn't hitting the corners like usual or falling forward for yards, and when I looked in my lineup he was a 70 OVR. Do those promotional cards expire after you use them a certain amount of time? Same thing happened to me with a Jerry Rice elite that I think came from a Loyalty pack when I first started MUT. I hate to quicksell him but I can't auction or put him in a set.

On the bright side, I passed 85 OVR when I replaced Barry with an 88 Gurley, but it still won't let me choose my second style. Every time I go to my lineup it prompts me to pick a second style, but the second style still appears locked. I've been stocking up on GP players in anticipation so I'm hoping this is a glitch or the servers are lagging, but it has been about 45 minutes and it still won't let me pick.

Yeah, yu get new cards to use every week, and the old ones drop to a 70 OVR. They are not meant to be permanent cards, but rather a taste of better players. Of course, most of the time now my current players are better than the rewards, so I just quick sell them for 50 coins. You can't auction or trade them, and they don't go in any sets. But I've caught myself with some old 70 players I forgot about.

Not sure why the second style is not opening up for you. Hopefully that gets straightened out.

As for Draft Champions, I'm starting to see more and more connections lost when teams are losing. Today I intercepted the first pass a guy through, and then scored a TD in a few plays. On his next drive, it was clear he was a typical Vick user, which means scrambling and lobbing long passes. It's about the easiest cheese to stop. He decided to go for it on 4th and 13 from his on 16, which gave me another short field. He suddenly loses connection, and I get the loss.

The very next game, I'm about to go up 14-0, the guy loses connection, and I again get the loss. So in two games, it totally wasted the 9000 coins I spent to play.

Apparently there is a 50/50 shot if the connection is lost as to who gets the win. So players play reckless and then quit when they get behind. It sucks because it has been a fantastic alternative to MUT online.

I guess I am back to just playing friends on Draft Champions.

My second style finally unlocked. Had to quit the game and come back.

I think I'm more addicted to the auction house than the game itself right now TBH. Making 2k here and 4k there flipping cards. Probably should open an etrade account.

That's really stupid that a connection loss is basically a coin toss, on Fifa is works it out- oh you're 3-0 up, yep win is yours.

I just finished a 3-2 record on DC today, one of my victories was a game back from 14-0 down after giving away an interception and then a fumble in the first 2 plays. The first a guy conceded after going down by just 2 scores just before half time.
Then my last win was in OT after conceding the field goal, I went in for TD, got the clip somewhere but haven't edited it yet.

It was against the computer on Pro but damn... 88 Gurley is a machine. 98 yards to the house: http://xboxdvr.com/gamer/DedicatedLi...

Edit - Wow. Just jumped on to file away some of my low golds and silver/bronze cards into badge packs. Ended up ripping three elite badges in four packs, including one that popped in a 2-badge pack. Easy money!

If you guys are in need of players, it looks like the AH is taking a bit of a dump today. At least around 25 percent off a lot of players.

Felt guilty about getting a win on draft champions earlier, game disconnected straight after kick off and it just gave me the game instead of null and voiding it. Very silly.
That said, every game I have played but one on draft champions has gone down to the wire, not sure if that is because of the 3 min 1/4s. I just came back from 17-3 down with 2.30 mins to go to win in overtime. Also love opening packs, reminds of my collecting stickers as a kid, shame there is no "got, got, got, need, need,got" going on.

I had a freaking fantastic DC game the other night. It was a defensive slugfest that a slight advantage in first downs in the first half allowed me to win FG position enough to take a 3-0 lead into the 2nd half. We each punted a few times.

It stayed that way until the 4th quarter when a long pass and a missed tackle led to a long TD, putting him up 7-3. Neither one of us were mounting long scoring drives, so it felt like game. But I hit Hines Ward on a curl, where he eluded his defender, and then took it to the house, for about 70 yards, with about 2 minutes left, giving me the 10-7 lead.

Then, to make matters worse for my opponent, he fumbled on the ensuing kick. I ran three straight plays, forcing him to use his time outs, and then kicked a FG for a 13-7 lead. Then I hoped for the best, holding on to win as he eventually turned it over on downs.

I did get accused of being a hacker by some kid that played nothing but hurry up, went for it on every fourth down, and used nanos on defense. He got the ball first and drove the for an opening TD on a drive in which he completed every pass, with most of them being curl routes. Every completion was for 8-12 yard, and I just had nothing.

When I got the ball, I stalled at the 50 and punted. He then drove most of the way don the field doing the exact same thing, as I scrambled for something to stop him. I then tried something I never do. I selected Y in the pre-snap menu, and used the RS to select Underneath. I figured I would just concentrate on those short passes, because he threw nothing long.

That was the magic pill. He was inside my 30 when Rodgers-Cromartie stepped in front of a pass and ran it the distance to tie the game. On his next drive, he suddenly had a harder time competing passes, when, "boom!" I intercepted another pass and ran it back for my second pick six. He got the ball back, and again, one of the first few passes he threw, another pick six. I was now up 21-7 without doing anything on offense. I eventually stopped him and got the ball back, and drove enough to kick a FG. I led 24-7 at half in a game I thought I had no shot. He then threw a fit. First he started stalling, not calling defensive plays, pausing the game, ect. Then, he got the ball and was called for three straight delay of games and was booted for griefing. It was only then I saw the message he sent me earlier, in which he called me a hacker.

Seriously, I'm somebody that just figured out how to set me DB's to watch underneath, and he thinks I was cheating. It's not my fault that once I figured out how to beat the plays he was calling that he never considered changing his approach. Hell, I would imagine over the top was wide open.

Madden 16 Patch 1.09 Has Been Released

Here are some of the gameplay changes available in the patch:

-A fix is in to prevent multiple nano-blitzes using the B-Gap. The RG will now always look inside to outside for blocking assignments.

-The ‘playcalling/pause’ freeze is fixed (where you lose input data and have to dashboard).

-Untimed downs will occur at the right times (this also fixes the FG Block glitch).

-A rare bug where QB sacks were creating a stopped clock has been fixed.

-User QBs will now get less of an accuracy penalty on All Madden difficulty level.

-Patch notes also mention general stability improvements (aka less freezes).

Madden 16 Patch 1.09 Has Been Released

Here are some of the gameplay changes available in the patch:

-A fix is in to prevent multiple nano-blitzes using the B-Gap. The RG will now always look inside to outside for blocking assignments.

-The ‘playcalling/pause’ freeze is fixed (where you lose input data and have to dashboard).

-Untimed downs will occur at the right times (this also fixes the FG Block glitch).

-A rare bug where QB sacks were creating a stopped clock has been fixed.

-User QBs will now get less of an accuracy penalty on All Madden difficulty level.

-Patch notes also mention general stability improvements (aka less freezes).

Did you guys Coin Up? Woke up to $55k in sweet sweet coin this morning from betting on Ropie.

I'm laid up for the next two weeks after undergoing foot surgery so I will be digging more into DC.

I actually skipped the Coun-ups, but did all of them during the season. That was a nice haul.

I think I drafted the perfect team. I'm sure my next game will knock me back down, but I was up 35-13 at half, with long passes to Julio Jones and Jordy Nelson, and jaw dropping 70 yard run by Payton.

The thing is, I only took 5 offensive players and no QB or TE. So I had Sam Bradford running my offense.

My defense had a lot of answers. Part of the high score came on turnovers.

My last draft saw me go 2 and out with no wins.

Just won my first ranked game of DC on a last second field goal. Awesome feeling. Had a 84 yard TD run my mark Ingram on my first offensive play as well.

I just won my first DC Championship! I was close to a clean sweep, but at 5-0 I lost a heartbreaker to a guy that could grind out the clock like crazy. And he was doing it with a one of the 70 OVR HBs! But his OL was just stuffing my DL back every snap, and I had three draft picks on the line.

He went up 7-0 at the end of the first half. I returned the favor with a long five and half minute drive to open the second half to tie the game. Neither of us were running chew clock, it was just a steady dos of runs and short passes.

On his last drive I had a couple of shots to stop him, but he got close enough to kick a FG, so I let him score. Otherwise he just runs it down and kick for the win. I got the ball back with 35 seconds left, but couldn't do anything.

But the some of the wins were pretty epic. I was up 24-14 when a kid scored on a long TD with a minute left, and then recovered the onside kick. Luckily, I picked him off and won the game.

Congrats man. Do you user your D Linemen?

Yes, I do about 99% of the time. Only switch I am having trouble stopping specific plays. Usually, if I drop into coverage, I'm toast.

I did play a kid once that had an 99 OVR receiver that was giving me fits, so I started manually covering him. It kind of worked,in that he started throwing to other layers, and made mistakes.

But mostly, if I don't user a DE or DT, I'm taking a LB to protect against steps and screen plays. My main goal is to never user one of my great players. I figure I can only make them worse. So in my current team, I had two DEs and one DT, but was running a 4-3. So I would control the average DT.

What do you usually do?

Opening my reward packs for winning the championship revealed one Final Edition DT H. Ngata, 93 OVR. He is currently going for better than 120K. I'd say that covers more than a few 9K entries! Plus I picked up a few thousand in Quicksells, seven Draft champion badges, and a lot of other players that will net me more than 10K. Not bad.

Kind of depends for me. I find that the CPU does a way better job of getting to the QB than I do controlling my D ends so I usually try to user my MLB. Problem there is, I can do relatively well covering the middle or picking up an RB coming out of the backfield but I get tricked by PA all the damn time, and if you shoot a gap you sort of get glued into a blocker and you lose the ability to get back into coverage.

If I'm getting thrown on deep a lot, I'll user my SS, Bethea, and try to provide some cover on deep posts. Works ok and I'm getting better on recognizing different plays. I just picked up styles Quin at FS so I might try to user him since he's a bit faster... But his Zone Coverage stat is pretty insane and I feel like the CPU would do better with him since I run a base cover 2 most of the time.

Journey 3 solo challenge series is up. 64 more solos and the reward is a 95 overall Vic beasley card.