Biking: Catch-all

T-Prime wrote:

How convenient this thread was at the top when I thought, "I wonder if there are Goojers that can help..."

I live in New York City, but I'm thinking about buying a bike when I visit back home around Detroit in a few weeks (probably cheaper to buy in the D than in NYC; haven't looked too in-depth yet).

Before I entertain that thought, has anyone boxed up and flown with their bike in the US recently? What's your experience? Should I FedEx/UPS it to my apartment instead? My primary concern is cost and cost effectiveness.

You can rent a bike box. Google "bike box rental ", or pop into you LBS and ask them.

Also, how nice is your bike? If it's a carbon-fiber uber-ride, your primary concern should be it arriving in one piece.

Ouch. Saturday was rough. Had a great time riding all day, put in about 60 miles with some good friends, closed down a nice little pub and then hopped on the bike to ride the last 20 miles home at about 1:30am. 15 minutes later it starts pouring rain, and the temp was down to about 28 degrees. I made it to within about 15 miles from home before the ice build up was just too much and I wiped out. Pulled myself together, got back on, wiped out again another quarter mile down the road. That's when I decided it was stupid to continue riding and called for a cab. They told me it would be 1-2 hour wait. Ugh. By this time it's after 2am, I know the wife has been drinking with friends all night, so I can't call her for a ride, don't know anyone else nearby who I could wake up, so resigned myself to walking the bike for a bit to wait for it to clear up maybe. Well, got another quarter mile and saw a hotel on the road, so at 2:30ish am on a Sunday morning, soaked to the bone and bruised all up and down my side I checked into a hotel less than 15 miles from home.

Got up at 8 am and rode home. The wife asks "Where were you?" so I tell her the whole story. She says, "If anyone else were to tell me that story, I'd assume they were having an affair, but yeah, that's pretty much par for the course with you."

If I go into a bike shop looking to potentially buy a road bike, what should I be expecting from the employees as far as making sure I get a properly fitting bike? I'm 6'6" and pretty heavy, so I realize that chances are slim to none that I'll find anything in stock that I can sit on and test out. Should they be taking measurements and things like that? We stopped into a couple shops today (The only two here in town) and felt like they didn't quite give me the answers I was looking for. The first shop pulled out an XL Raleigh that was a 58mm frame and said "we can make this one work for you, it's the biggest frame we sell. That's not what I wanted to hear. I know for a fact that there are larger road bikes out there. The second shop pretty much said "you need the biggest frame you can find. The biggest we sell is the Specialized Secteur at 64cm. We can make adjustments to fit you better when we have it here." Of course they basically said I needed to put a deposit on the bike so they could order one for me. It seems like I might want to sit on one and test ride it before I plunked that much money down, though.

Aren't there measurements like inseam and reach taken to figure out the proper sizing for road bikes, or don't they do it like that any more? I also asked about a bike for my wife, who is 5'8" and they said a 54cm bike is what you want. Again, no measurements.

This is a good tool to get you started. It will give you the approximate frame size you want to look for. Unfortunately every brand and model fits a bit differently. Normally I would suggest trying as many models as you can to figure out which one feels best for you, but at your height you'll have to special order the bike and, as you've discovered, you generally need to commit to the purchase before most shops will do that. I'm really not sure how you would arrange some test drives other than by calling around to every shop you can find to see if any of them have the proper frame size in stock...

Unfortunately, Serengeti's on the mark: calling around is your best bet. Fortunately, it's early enough in the year where availability should be decent - whatever is out there for you shouldn't have sold through for the 2013 model year yet (some may not yet have had their first shipment to dealers just yet, in fact!). Find out about each shop's deposit policy in case the bike doesn't fit quite right or is not entirely to your liking. No reputable shop is going to want to get you stuck with anything, and a competent shop is going to do everything they can to get things right the first time to avoid having to make things right in the end (which, let's face it, is impossible if you don't get a bike fit proportionately to your body). Don't look at fitting as "fudge other numbers with numbers from elsewhere", but rather, "this frame fits you, so now we'll swap stems and bars, cut the fork's steerer, change crank lengths, adjust saddle positioning, etc. to dial things in perfectly". Smaller tweaks should follow once you actually have the bike and are putting on the miles, and good fit policy accounts for this.

One thing to keep in mind is that any shop taking their time to fit you properly isn't just trying to sell a bike and not have you return it, but will be making a play to get you as a loyal customer. Remember, if they're already going to have to go to the trouble to fit you against known geometries in differing bikes of the "same" size and order something in, they're already going out of their way - a good experience here is going to be much closer to what you'd find at, say, a reputable auto dealership, with the caveat that the first-name basis and all that is being done in hopes of getting your return biz for clothes, accessories, service, etc.

Good luck in your quest! Keep us updated on your experiences and the eventual bike to follow!

According to Serengeti's link I should be looking for a 64cm frame and 175mm crank length. I think I may call around to some shops in neighboring towns and see if I can find anything my size to test drive.

I gather tri-specific bikes are typically set-up differently to road bikes. I'm not planning to buy a dedicated tri bike, so it'll be a road bike, potentially adding aero bars. Is that something to consider when sizing the road bike?

Cod wrote:

I gather tri-specific bikes are typically set-up differently to road bikes. I'm not planning to buy a dedicated tri bike, so it'll be a road bike, potentially adding aero bars. Is that something to consider when sizing the road bike?

Yes, definitely. The aero position is really different and you'll want a bike that has the right geometry to flexibly convert if you go that direction. For example, if your top tube ends up being short and you have a longer stem you might not be able to convert that bike as easily. Or if the bike is so tall that you have no flexibility in seat height that could also affect the conversion.

I would get a bike fitting done first. Then buy the bike based on that.

Quick question. Does anyone around here have a spin bike? I'd like something for days where I know I won't have time to get on my bike, but I don't know much about spin bikes, only real bikes.

Cod-- when I used to sell bikes, I'd turn those looking for an entry into Triathlons towards a relaxed-fit road bike, on which you can add tri-bars. I can't really remember exactly anymore (ianunderhill may want to step in when he gets the chance, as he works in a tri-shop), but I'm pretty sure the top tube of a tri bike is shorter than a regular road race bike, to accommodate the torso extension over the stem (and thus, leaning on the tri-bars). This is closer to that of a relaxed-fit/endurance roadie, which is designed to sit the rider a little more upright (and thus more comfortable) than a race bike-- thus, I used to steer amateur triathletes toward these as a starting point.

DSGamer-- I don't have a spin bike, but I would recommend getting a track stand/trainer . You can hook your bike right up to it and spin to your heart's content! If you have the extra scratch, though, I'd also recommend getting at the very least a trainer tire (regular tires can de-laminate over long periods of time from the friction of the trainer). This means you'd have to swap back tires every time you want to use the trainer; so if you can spend more, get a cheapo rear wheel/cassette and put the trainer tire on that. Then you just have to swap out the whole wheel instead of wrestle with the tire bead and tube.

If you're going the road-bike + clip-on aerobars route, make sure you get a set of very customizable aerobars, or at the very least, have the fitting done with the aerobar installed.

We have a really nice trainer, but my wife and I are both at a point where we can't get on it safely. We need to limber up and lose some weight. Thus the idea for just getting a spin bike.

The only spin bike I have extensive experience with is the CycleOps Club Pro 300PT, and this is speaking from the service side of things (my shop has done extensive work with a few local gyms full of them, and I've been out for some in-home service for them as well). I can't reccomend it because the design of the resistance control knob is poor - it involves a length of brake cable and housing with the plastic knob molded around it; turning the knob increases tension of the cable, which increases the amount of contact between the rear brake pads and the heavy flywheel.

Since the knob is mounted in the end of a quasi-bullhorn handlebar, a lot of sweat tends to get in between the knob and the handlebar, corroding the metal of the bar and in turn making it harder to remove the knob. Since the cable is built into the knob, you need to replace the knob when you need to replace the cable. Saris/CycleOps not only charges quite a bit for the replacement knob (retail is typically around $15-$20 for a stupid piece of plastic hooked to a wound steel cable inside some brake housing), but removing the old one is almost always a chore requiring at least partial destruction of the old knob on account of sweat/corrosion accumulation inside the bar taking up space around the knob. This adds a good ten to twenty extra minutes of digging at the plastic with sharp instruments, pulling with channel locks, etc. - there's just no way to get it out that's good, so it's frustrating if you're fixing it and needlessly expensive if you're paying to have someone fix it.

Worse yet, the knobs used to be held in place by way of a set screw but aren't any longer. The hole for the screw is still molded into the plastic, but the knobs I've seen coming from Saris/CycleOps in the past several years haven't got any threads cut into the hole. This means that the only thing holding the knob inside the bar is cable tension; turning the knob the wrong way or leaning on it can result in the knob dislodging mid-workout, which is dangerous as it presents a potential fall hazard if you're gripping the bar right where the knob comes out.

Newer CycleOps models have a slightly different resistance knob that's on the equivalent of the top tube of the spin bike. I haven't seen many issues with these, but I've also not serviced many. YMM, as always, V.

I'm still healing a slice in my heel that's keeping me from running, but I figured out that I can get out on my bike. Had a glorious (but short) ride yesterday on a wonderfully crisp afternoon. But boy howdy is my ass sore now. First time on two wheels since about September, I think, outside of spin classes.

First time out on my new pedals and shoes too. Changed out my chunky two-sided SPD pedals for a sleek single-side entry SPD-SL set, and man, is there a difference in how easy they are to clip into. Nearly toppled over a couple of times taking off from a standstill due to my inability to find the clip-in point. I'm sure I'll be fine after a few more rides of getting used to it. On the plus side, definitely feel a more sturdy connection between foot and pedal, so that's good.

Question!
Having replaced my pedals, and going by the principle of spending money on interface-points between bike and body, I'm now looking at replacing my saddle. I'm riding a hard, tiny San Marco saddle that was a hand-me down that came on the wife's Bianchi. It's not super-comfortable, especially for the long rides that triathlon training calls for, and especially at the start of the season when my ass is unconditioned.

I'm looking at ISM saddles, which seem to be all the rage in the tri world. Anyone got any smart words about them in particular, or saddle shopping in general? I'm going to call my local tri shop and see if they'll let me test-ride some.

It literally comes down to personal preference-- no two asses are the same, so what works for me (WTB Valcon Pro) won't necessarily work for you. Hopefully your LBS will let you test out saddles-- a lot of them don't, and that's unfortunate. A few shops might have a saddle/frame rig set up for you to at least sit on but won't allow you to actually take the seat out for a ride, but at least that's something.

Hey WipEout, do you know of anyone else who's doing anything like Competitive Cyclist's now-discontinued Saddle Demo program? I was hoping to do it this year, as I'm looking for an upgrade, and just found out they discontinued it.

It was a great deal: $75 and they'd ship you 13 saddles, return shipping included. If you bought one of them you got $35 the price of the saddle. And you got to try all 13 out for longer rides. I'm searching but can't seem to find anything else quite like it.

WipEout wrote:

It literally comes down to personal preference-- no two asses are the same

Yessss, that'll do.

I'd get the Giant, since it has the Shimano 105 set while the others have the Sora and 2300 sets. The Sora and 2300 shifters use a thumb level to downshift, I believe, which seems like it could be awkward in the drops. And I think the 105s are just a tad lighter and more reliable anyway. Oh, your Giant link actually points to the Orbea bike, so I guessed that you meant this one.

My husband loves his Brooks saddle, especially after he'd broken it in a bit. Whether a leather saddle is suitable for a tri bike is another question -- I don't know how well it will take to the swim-bike transition.

I went to a neighboring town last weekend to poke around in some bike stores. Shop #1 had a couple bikes that I rode around on briefly. One was an Orbea Aqua and one was a Giant Defy. They were both similar in size, the Orbea was a 60cm frame, the Giant was an XL. At shop #2 I rode a Specialized Allez 61cm.

I assumed they would all be too small for me, but to be honest I didn't find any of them awkward to ride. In the back of my head I keep thinking someone should just be telling me "This is the bike that you need to be on." I know it doesn't work that way, though. The trouble I'm having is that I don't know what "correct" fit is supposed to feel like. I noticed that the 64cm Specialized Secteur in the 64cm size doesn't seem to be a great amount bigger by the numbers than these other, smaller frames. I don't know how big a difference a little bigger makes. I wish I could find one of these XXL frames to test ride, just to see how it feels.

complexmath wrote:

I'd get the Giant, since it has the Shimano 105 set while the others have the Sora and 2300 sets. The Sora and 2300 shifters use a thumb level to downshift, I believe, which seems like it could be awkward in the drops. And I think the 105s are just a tad lighter and more reliable anyway. Oh, your Giant link actually points to the Orbea bike, so I guessed that you meant this one.

Actually I meant to link to the Defy 5, which has the 2300 components and not 105. I've fixed my link.

The Allez that I looked at had the little thumb switch for down shifting. The Orbea had sora, which no longer uses that method, there is now a lever just inside the brake lever.

IMAGE(http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2012/02/16/1329496159052-d22jw76a8clg-670-70.jpg)

Saddle update - my tri store does test rides, and they have the ISM Road that I'm interested in trying out. They let you keep it for two weeks.

I've been consistently impressed with their service - if you're in my neck of the woods and looking for fancy swim/bike/run gear, check out Speedy Reedy, right on Lake Union by Gasworks Park.

Go with the Sora (Only Campy can really do thumb shifters well, but Campagnolo would be well out of your price range, I'm sure), but if you can spare the extra cash, try to get 105-- it'll last longer, shift smoother, and stay in tune for longer, as the aluminum won't wear down as quickly as the plastics of the lesser models.

Anyone have experience with eBikes? I pivoted away from my idea of getting a trainer and towards the idea of getting an eBike to help get kick-started. I tried them out today and really liked them. I have the money to spend and my health requires a little investment. So I'm not looking to be talked out of the idea unless you have personal experience. I'm just curious if anyone here has used them and if they have impressions beyond my riding tests today.

Sorry, DS, I have no experience with them at all... You are talking about bikes modified with an electric motor, correct?

But I forgot to respond to this:

Minarchist wrote:

Hey WipEout, do you know of anyone else who's doing anything like Competitive Cyclist's now-discontinued Saddle Demo program? I was hoping to do it this year, as I'm looking for an upgrade, and just found out they discontinued it.

It was a great deal: $75 and they'd ship you 13 saddles, return shipping included. If you bought one of them you got $35 the price of the saddle. And you got to try all 13 out for longer rides. I'm searching but can't seem to find anything else quite like it.

I believe some WTB dealers have demo saddles from WTB that you can check out for a couple weeks as well. My old shop used to take a deposit on a saddle, in case the customer decided not to bring it back. Not sure who else does that, or even if my old shop still does. But that Competitive Cyclist deal sounded awesome!

There are a bunch of bike commuters around here who ride e-bikes. I don't know how they perform on hills, but they seem to ride well on the flats. Pretty quick, too.

My brother and I both picked up Kurt Rock and Roller trainers last fall. It's pretty nasty here throughout the winter and I live in a very rural area with no decent place to take a spinning class or something. I have put in about 20 sessions in the last 3 months. I just throw on Breaking Bad on Netflix and away I go. The resistance is remarkably close to the resistance I get on the road. I generally put in about 50 minutes, varying the effort throughout. I don't think I could do longer sessions or my focus/will would give out. My brother uses sufferfest training videos and he swears by them for maintaining focus.

Pros:

- Rock solid trainer. Extremely easy to use and I can't imagine ever breaking this unless I dragged it behind my car
- Great resistance makes it easy to see progress.
- Use the bike you're fitted and comfortable with.

Cons:

- Easily bored/distracted people should not use trainers
- You will sweat more than you ever could have imagined
- You will probably want headphones to watch tv while riding.

If you're serious about getting fitter over the winter or have limited time to get out like me (kids), this is for you. I might even be able to stay in the pack with my weekly riding group this summer

Homard wrote:

My brother and I both picked up Kurt Rock and Roller trainers last fall. It's pretty nasty here throughout the winter and I live in a very rural area with no decent place to take a spinning class or something. I have put in about 20 sessions in the last 3 months. I just throw on Breaking Bad on Netflix and away I go. The resistance is remarkably close to the resistance I get on the road. I generally put in about 50 minutes, varying the effort throughout. I don't think I could do longer sessions or my focus/will would give out. My brother uses sufferfest training videos and he swears by them for maintaining focus.

Back when I had a trainer, I also invested in one of these, because I, like you, am a sweaty mofo when I'm working hard. It catches the sweat so you're not pouring turbo-powered corrosion juice directly down into your headset.

IMAGE(http://www.performancebike.com/images/performance/products/medium/40-1411-NCL-TOP.jpg)

So, I've got 12 people signed up to head on up to Alberta with me in late August and do this route over 5 days. I can't wait, it's going to be an amazing (and challenging) ride! 10,707 feet of climb over 194 miles on possibly the most scenic road in Canada. Plus, it's where I grew up, so there's the excitement of sharing that with the friends I've made who've never been to the great white north before.

Super pumped!

IMAGE(http://familyonbikes.org/coppermine/albums/userpics/normal_08082601.jpg)

That is a truly fantastic route choice Serengeti, very envious. Will you be keeping any sort of trip log so that we can live vicariously through you?