Biking: Catch-all

What...I just...I don't even...

How many sets of tires you think he went through filming that?

Yeah. Ouchies on the rims.

I'm betting those rims will be just fine! Considering I've been on the same set of cheap-ass Alex DA22s for 3 years, year-round road and single-track riding, and I've only had to true them once-- I'm sure the rims in that video are of a better quality build and material than my crap. This is to say that any well-built set of wheels can take a LOT of punishment. Hell-- I had a pair of Forte Titans that lasted longer than my first bike, and they'd been through 2 of my 3 major car-hitting-me accidents-- the two accidents that totaled my frames.

Given that he's riding a bicycle which costs more than my car, I'd wager that the wheels are of adequate quality.

AnimeJ, too, is right.

WipEout's right. Providing there are no manufacturing defects to the hub or rim, and that the spokes are of adequate quality, a properly laced wheel at adequate tension will not go out of true without drastic impact or other dramatic variations in dynamic load. The main problem with many stock wheels is that they're built with spokes of so-so quality, and these are laced by machine. Despite what a lot of crusty mustachioed preservers of Velo Lore will tell you, the problem isn't in the machine built nature of the wheels, but that the wheels are often not stressed and then re-tensioned a few times. That is to say, build wheels by hand all day long, and without a proper stressing/re-tensioning process, they may not be worth a damn. The main factor here is production speed/QA and thereafter the thoroughness of who works on your wheels at the shop level. Machine built cheapies are just fine if properly tensioned. However, it's worth noting a lot of companies will spec the same wheels for a given range of sizes in a given model; as you approach the larger frame sizes where rider weight increases proportionately, you run into the problem that the spokes in wheels specced out for the 130-150lb. rider don't hold up so well for the 180lbs.+ rider, which is a huge section of the market, and one of the reasons you'll see plenty of middle-aged men sauntering into bike shops complaining of "popping" spokes on that new $600 hybrid they just bought,

That said, two favors:
1) Please say "wheel" unless you're referring to just the literal metal or carbon (or for you boutiquey/anachronistic types, wood) rim.
2) As you don't put air into spokes, they don't "pop" - they just break. If anything, the sound of a spoke under tension breaking is so trebly and non-percussive I don't know how it could be described in such an expression - "plink", "ding", and "ping" would all be much more suitable descriptions, although I realize they're not verbs.

I just watched it with the wife; out of curiosity, I went to see if they mentioned what kind of bike it was on youtube, where they actually listed the price of the bike(It's a Pinarello Dogma 2 for anyone wondering), which is 10k GBP, or roughly $16000.

I had a sad moment last night when I was doing some maintenance on my bike in front of the TV and realized that the weather and day-length has turned enough that I'm not going to log many hours on two wheels for several months to come. Alternatively, that I need to invest in some lights

Discussion topic!

My brother (a keen mountain biker and occasional roadie) posted The Rules on FB. It's a curious mix of sensible ("Rides are to be measured by quality, not quantity"), vain ("Shave your guns") and stupid ("No food on rides less than 4 hours").

So how bad is this? Can I keep riding on this or should I be doing something here.

IMAGE(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bu-is_tZvkE/UISA-aliQ-I/AAAAAAAABP0/XCICcwWr00U/s374/IMAG0586.jpg)

IMAGE(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uRN6Ta_PDk4/UISBQzmRHxI/AAAAAAAABP8/hOLJbezbIdc/s627/IMAG0587.jpg)

Also should I replace those slick tires to something more weather appropriate?

Secret Asian Man wrote:

Also should I replace those slick tires to something more weather appropriate?

I can't speak to the rim ding, but slick tires work just fine in the wet. Knobbly tires are for uneven surfaces, not wet ones. Slicks will grip more on wet tarmac than knobblies will.

Jonman wrote:
Secret Asian Man wrote:

Also should I replace those slick tires to something more weather appropriate?

I can't speak to the rim ding, but slick tires work just fine in the wet. Knobbly tires are for uneven surfaces, not wet ones. Slicks will grip more on wet tarmac than knobblies will.

I'm guessing he was referring to something more ridged for all-weather use, not actual knobbies. I keep my slicks on all year, but granted, I don't do a lot of riding when it drops below 40º.

Are those 23cc?

To be honest I don't even know. I bought the bike off CL off a recommendation from a friend who searched CL for me. I'm just learning about biking since moving to SF and selling my car. I don't think it gets below 40º here.

I can check the tire when I get home tonight. Would a 28cc be better for urban riding? I'm guessing a little wider would be more comfortable? I'm also pretty heavy at 200lbs.

I haven't rode in the wet yet. Dry it seems to be fine, but I wouldn't know good from bad really. I just wish the brakes were more effective. I changed the pads and it seemed to help. I was thinking about removing the side pull brakes to a dual pivot type.

Secret Asian Man wrote:

So how bad is this? Can I keep riding on this or should I be doing something here.

IMAGE(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bu-is_tZvkE/UISA-aliQ-I/AAAAAAAABP0/XCICcwWr00U/s374/IMAG0586.jpg)

IMAGE(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-uRN6Ta_PDk4/UISBQzmRHxI/AAAAAAAABP8/hOLJbezbIdc/s627/IMAG0587.jpg)

Also should I replace those slick tires to something more weather appropriate?

I wouldn't ride that rim, but I am a mostly-roadie and get a little freaky about the thought of any sort of failure at speed, i.e. there's no way I could do a typical descent on a typical ride and have that in the back of my head. I spent eight weeks off the bike with two broken hands this summer - that was enough for a lifetime. (Not a mechanical failure - but crashes suck. Avoid if possible. )

Really wouldn't leave it on my MTB, either, now that I think about it.

Think about what would happen if you had a failure (blowout, rim crack, whatever) in the worst possible situation you ride in, and go from there.

looks like 23 or 25C. SAM-- you should be fine with those tires in San Francisco weather. Otherwise, Vittorria Rubino Pro is a nice low-profile, good-gripping tire with only a slight amount of tread. Though you're likely to slip on wet metal or road stripes either way, I've found the Rubino Pros always held up nicely when I was living out there.

As for the rim-- you might be able to get away with it if the tube keeps pressure, but any hard or rough riding (rough roads, leaning into turns at higher speeds often) I would think runs a higher risk of unseating the tire's bead and turning your day bad. You might be better off just getting a new cheap wheel to replace the one you've got.

TBH the rim looks like an older cheapy, so I'm thinking you should replace it with something new anyway. The Forte Titans I got from Performance a few years back were pretty good in my experience.

As far as brakes go: can we see a pic? Depending on the type of brakes that are on the bike, you may be limited in what type of brake upgrades are available to you.

And 28C tires are becoming more popular for urban bikes (take bumps a little smoother), but you'd be fine with well-pressurized 23 or 25C's.

Thanks for the info. I'll head to a bike store and see how much it'll cost to replace the rim. I'm assuming I can just swap out that part and keep the rest of the wheelset?

I remember someone mentioning the Velocity Deep V as a decent wheel. Rim looks about $50ish or if anybody else has any recommendations.

The peace of mind would be nice to have. Two broken hands doesn't sound fun, sorry NakedHavoc.

Thanks. Yeah it completely sucked. I felt like a dog wearing a funnel collar.

However, I should have been dead. No exaggeration. Instead I had two broken hands (surgery on one), a broken rib and a bunch of road rash. I got off easy.

Re:the rim damage - if the tire still hooks in securely, the problem that you've damaged the braking surface is still an issue. During braking, there's going to be one point in the wheel's revolution where you're going to feel that, and worse yet, the lower fatigue strength of aluminum means that section of braking surface is going to be subject to premature failure. As WipEout observes, that looks like a budget wheel anyway - just replace it. Emphasis is again on "wheel" vs. "rim", as replacing the rim will require a wheel rebuild as well as new spokes of a length fitting the hub and rim dimensions unless you've got the exact same replacement rim; even then, most good shops won't re-use old spokes in a wheel build for fear of breakage from previous wear/fatigue.

I'll second the remarks about slick tires being okay for the mentioned conditions. Generally speaking, smoother tires that feature some semi-tread pattern don't do much in the narrower widths as your tire's contact patch is narrow and round, as opposed to wide and flat like that of an automobile. As long as you're on asphalt, you're going to benefit more from a tire that puts more rubber in contact with the road than not. There are various tires on the market that offer systems of grooves and channels that supposedly channel water away from the tread - these don't really work as advertised in real-world rainy or wet conditions as so little of your tire is in contact with the pavement at a given moment. Most of this stuff is more cosmetic crap put there for people looking for analogies to car tires. Your better bet in a wet-weather road bike tire is anything where the rubber itself is more compliant and grippier. If you have the brake clearance, it can also help to run a wider tire to further increase how much rubber you have on the road at a given moment. As mentioned above, you still need to exercise caution on metal and painted surfaces, which are perilous in wet conditions.

ianunderhill wrote:

Re:the rim damage - if the tire still hooks in securely, the problem that you've damaged the braking surface is still an issue. During braking, there's going to be one point in the wheel's revolution where you're going to feel that, and worse yet, the lower fatigue strength of aluminum means that section of braking surface is going to be subject to premature failure. As WipEout observes, that looks like a budget wheel anyway - just replace it. Emphasis is again on "wheel" vs. "rim", as replacing the rim will require a wheel rebuild as well as new spokes of a length fitting the hub and rim dimensions unless you've got the exact same replacement rim; even then, most good shops won't re-use old spokes in a wheel build for fear of breakage from previous wear/fatigue.

I'll second the remarks about slick tires being okay for the mentioned conditions. Generally speaking, smoother tires that feature some semi-tread pattern don't do much in the narrower widths as your tire's contact patch is narrow and round, as opposed to wide and flat like that of an automobile. As long as you're on asphalt, you're going to benefit more from a tire that puts more rubber in contact with the road than not. There are various tires on the market that offer systems of grooves and channels that supposedly channel water away from the tread - these don't really work as advertised in real-world rainy or wet conditions as so little of your tire is in contact with the pavement at a given moment. Most of this stuff is more cosmetic crap put there for people looking for analogies to car tires. Your better bet in a wet-weather road bike tire is anything where the rubber itself is more compliant and grippier. If you have the brake clearance, it can also help to run a wider tire to further increase how much rubber you have on the road at a given moment. As mentioned above, you still need to exercise caution on metal and painted surfaces, which are perilous in wet conditions.

This is all spot-on IMO.

Secret Asian Man wrote:

Thanks for the info. I'll head to a bike store and see how much it'll cost to replace the rim. I'm assuming I can just swap out that part and keep the rest of the wheelset?

I remember someone mentioning the Velocity Deep V as a decent wheel. Rim looks about $50ish or if anybody else has any recommendations.

The peace of mind would be nice to have. Two broken hands doesn't sound fun, sorry NakedHavoc.

Deep V's are very nice, and nearly bullet-proof. But as Ian and I mentioned, you're better off simply replacing the whole wheel rather than just the rim. Unless you have some badass hubs that you want to keep, you're wallet will be happier if you just replace the wheel entirely. A rear Deep V wheel will probably run you upwards of $100 depending on what hub it was laced to. Stop by Sports Basement, Box Dog, or Freewheel and see what those guys have in the way of decent 700C rear wheels (do you have a single speed or gears? That will also help determine the cost of a replacement).

Jonman wrote:

Discussion topic!

My brother (a keen mountain biker and occasional roadie) posted The Rules on FB. It's a curious mix of sensible ("Rides are to be measured by quality, not quantity"), vain ("Shave your guns") and stupid ("No food on rides less than 4 hours").

Last time I looked at those, I got about four rules in before I gave up on them. (If I remember, right, rule 4* is "HTFU", which happens to be advice I need to hear every now and then.) But all that crap about how everything should be all matchy-matchy and the precise appropriate millimeter height for your socks? Pu-lease.

*Rule 5. Now you don't have to go read them yourself.

Awesome help guys. I have gears on this bike, Wipeout. I'll head to a store and see what they have. Hopefully something less that $100.

So this happened:

IMAGE(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6606/photonov0872328pm.jpg)

Katy wrote:

So this happened:

IMAGE(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6606/photonov0872328pm.jpg)

love it! My parents got one recently and I've taken it out with my wife a few times.... the back is terrifying

Blotto The Clown wrote:

love it! My parents got one recently and I've taken it out with my wife a few times.... the back is terrifying

I understand the key to riding on the back is to trust your captain and remain smug in knowing that the stoker is always correct.

This is in anticipation of a family bike tour next summer. Our 10 year old is not quite confident enough for long solo rides, so she will ride tandem, probably with my husband. But I expect the rest of us will give it a turn from time to time.

Katy wrote:
Blotto The Clown wrote:

love it! My parents got one recently and I've taken it out with my wife a few times.... the back is terrifying

I understand the key to riding on the back is to trust your captain and remain smug in knowing that the stoker is always correct.

This is in anticipation of a family bike tour next summer. Our 10 year old is not quite confident enough for long solo rides, so she will ride tandem, probably with my husband. But I expect the rest of us will give it a turn from time to time.

watch the gearing, the back can sometimes be as hard as or harder than the front.

Same here. I really let my training and conditioning slip when I was dealing with some recent work stress and fear but I've been getting in some regular base rides again lately. This is the latest into the year I've ridden and I've definitely been trying to pack in the sessions. Brutus hit us today so it might be the turning point to snowboarding.

Wow, this time last year, the bike was well into it's hibernation. Apart from that recent hurricane, I've still been able to get out on the average of 4 rides equaling 40mi/week. As long as the daytime temps hover around 45F, I'm out there!

Had it going on today. Nailed down a couple strava segments I've been gunning for since the summer. I think I've found the trick to them:

Spoiler:

Tailwinds.

Today's ride

edit: swapped screenshot for link

Have you seen Jahvahaah Internationale?

Katy wrote:

Have you seen Jahvahaah Internationale?

Oh that's just great! I especially liked the Summer Etiquette Ride Guide.

Does anyone have a recommendation for particular ankle straps for biking? We've been using plain velcro to keep pants legs out of the way on shorter rides where we're not all geared out, but I was thinking that I'd grab some reflective ones to throw into the Christmas stockings, and maybe they would be less likely to get misplaced.