Cycling Stuffs
So, I picked up a road bike(61cm Vilano) off Craigslist for cheap this summer. I've been riding about 2 30 mile rides a week. I'll probably be bumping this up once my shorts and jersey come in that I ordered.
Now, I probably won't invest much more into this bike for now, me being a college student and wanting to preserve my bank account.
I do have a birthday coming up a couple of months into fall semester.
What would be the next step? I figure moving up from my commuter pedals would be nice, but I'll need shoes then too.
What pedals and shoes would be suggested, especially for someone with long, slim feet(size 12-12.5, but c width; Perfect shoe fit was an ascics DS Trainer 12.5 till they stop making them)?
Or, what else would be a good investment on the bike?
I'll throw some pics of the bike up tomorrow, but its kinda the basic, no frills, off brand road bike.
*Legion* wrote:
Ignore boogle, his PCs have hookers inside of them.
I'll tag this onto this thread, anyone got a recommendation for a decent bike for um "big" people? namely one designed to have over 350 lbs on it?
"Also, I have four legs and am covered in wool. Baa!" *Legion* reveals his inner furry.
*Legion* wrote:
Shoes, like good running shoes HAVE to be tried on. If you've never worn clipless pedals before then there are really two options:
1: Go with the cheapest basic pedals you can get from your local bike store (50 bucks) that work with the larger plastic bindings (look style) - they're MUCH easier to learn with than Speedplay's/cranks/SPDs.
2: Buy shoes, then spend time on the trainer with different pedals at the shop, and get the ones you like. This implies having a real bike store nearby.
In either case, shoes will be about fit. You have to just go try them on. All told, you could get out of this at about 150 bucks I'm guessing, with 2/3 of that on the shoes. You have definately nailed the right component to go for.
Gamertag: GWJ Rabbit | Last.fm | Twitter
"Think of it as 'grinding SO rep in the Kitchen instance.' " - Montalban
I agree with Rabbit: good choice on a first upgrade. Working in a bike shop myself, I see a lot of people spend good money on a nice bike then skimp out to save some cash by purchasing Mountain bike shoes and the cheap-o Shimano m-245 SPD mtn pedals, only to go on a road bike. I would suggest fronting the extra $20 over the SPDs and go for something in the look-style (triangular cleat system), like Exustars. My store sells them for about $75, I think, and we do sell stuff online, www.sportsbasement.com (if the stuff you need isn't on there, you can usually call the internet department and order them over the phone-- may seem silly, but most of the stuff we have is cheaper even than performancebike.com, so you might save out in some cases...). Not the best pedals, but then, you'll save some cash in the short term.
As for the shoes, I agree with Rabbit on that one as well-- fit is most important. Most bike shoes' sizes run a litle smaller than your average tennis shoe, since they for for the "Euro" fit, generally speaking. For some reason, bike shoe manufacturers think Europeans have smaller feet than Americans, I guess. But Usually, I suggest trying on your shoe size and a half size smaller. When trying them on, go for shoes that are snug around the metatarsals (broadest area of your foot). This is what sits directly over the spindle of the pedal, so this is where a tight fit is most important for optimal power transfer. Ideally, there should still be some room for the toes to wiggle, since once you've been riding for a while your toes will swell with extra blood flow-- but you still want a snug fit around those metatarsals! You want a shoe with a solid sole, as the sole of the shoe is essentially the replacement for the platform of a standard pedal. Without a stiff sole, your shoe flexes with each stroke, and you're expelling energy into the shoe needlessly. All in all, you may want to splurge and get the Sidi Genius 5's or Genius 6's. Expensive (G5s are $240 in my store, G6's even more so) but they are probably some of the best, most comfortable bike shoes you'll ever wear. They even have a cork midsole that forms to your feet after only a couple rides, so it's like having a custom-fitted shoe. Or look for Northwave road shoes-- great shoes with a carbon-composite sole, comparable to Time RXS shoes, but usually at a lesser price.
Good luck, and if you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. I enjoy talking about bikes, and I like helping people out with bike stuff. Rather share my knowledge than let them go through the same crap I had to when learning. It can be a very expensive hobby...
dhelor wrote:
*Legion* wrote:
That's a pretty nice bike. Does yours have downtube shifters too? While they make for a cleaner handlebar setup, I would aim to get new shift levers that are integrated into the brake levers, like so:
They make for quicker shifts, since you don't have to move back and forth to the downtube. Ultegras are expensive, though, and new shifters aren't the most necessary upgrade.
Anyway, have fun on your new bike! Sweet deal, BTW.
dhelor wrote:
The Mt. Bike rec is a good one. If you want a road bike, check out a touring bike. I ride a Trek 520 and it is great for long rides on the road and it holds up well to years of commuting and riding. Touring bikes are build to haul heavy loads and tend to come w/ stronger brakes and wheels than standard road bikes. Good touring wheels plus some wider tires (28-32mm) on a touring frame should be all you need to get going.
*Legion* wrote:
I have a pair of Shimano biking sandals which I wear almost exclusively in the summer. They fit great and the extra airflow is awesome on hot days.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-Cycling-Sandals-SH-SD65/dp/B000K70IRS
I use these pedals with them:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M324-Pedal-SH-51-Silver/dp/B000XXXG7I/r...
The nice thing about those pedals is that they're double-sided. One side has your typical flat non-clip pedal, and the other side has standard cleat locks. When I'm downtown in stop and go traffic, I can pedal without being clipped in for safety, and when I'm out in the country I can clip in for power. It's a pretty nice compromise for the type of riding I do.
-- My Biking Team --
There is nothing wrong with using the SPD mountain bike pedals on a road bike. In fact, they are better in many ways than normal "road" pedals because you can actually walk in the shoes if you need to.
I spent a few years using LOOK pedals but all that got me was being annoyed about not being able to start on hills and missing a lot of clip-ins because the pedals are one sided.
Maybe I'm just a wuss.
Xbox Live: psu13, PSN: psu_13
The better the equipment you get, the longer/faster you have to go to burn the same calories.
"All that time you waste dating and having sex could be better spent scouring the web for new game developer press releases." - Quintin_Stone
Having the downtube's kind of sucks, but I'm getting used to it so its not a huge priority.
Look definitely seems to be the way to go as it seems I could use them for long rides, and still wear my vans hemp slip-ons for commuting.
*Legion* wrote:
I kind of miss my downtube shifters. They could be a bit of a pain for racing, but how many people race? What I miss about them is that they were so easy to maintain. The click shifters never seem to work perfectly. There's alway some gear where the cables aren't quite right. Not the end of the world, but also not a problem with the old system.
As for pedals, Look worked fairly well for everything but racing and walking. The problem with racing was that in a time trial where you're pounding away for half an hour, my feet would start to hurt because the pressure from the pedals seemed pretty focused. They didn't bother me normally, just long, hard, sustained pressure. They also didn't seem to attach as well to the feet as other models, but again, I don't view that as a real problem unless you're racing. As for walking, the 'toe up' position can be a bummer after a while. My mountain bike shoes and pedals are much better suited to walking.
What I do is clip in with one foot, then balance the other foot on top of the other pedal to get going. As long as you don't crank too hard, that should work fine to start. Once you get started, then it's easier to clip in with the other foot.
XBox Live: PoppinfreshGWJ
LobsterMobster wrote:
I just bought shoes and pedals yesterday. I got mountain shoes as I have both a mountain and road bike. The mountain shoes enable you to walk in them easily. I got roadbike pedals for the roadbike since the platform was wider. The pedals are shimano's for both so I can use the same cleat. The main advantage to mtb pedals over the ones I got are that they are double sided. The advantage of the road bike pedals is that they have a wider platform to support the foot better and are lighter. At least that's what I was told at the lbs. The cost difference was about $15 between the two. I opted for relatively cheap shoes and pedals (about $140 total) as I've never used bike shoes before. Just never felt a real need mountain biking. I pedal a lot different road biking and think this will allow me to pull throughout the stroke better than toe clips.
I ended up getting a half size larger shoe (14.5) as the size I normally wear was a bit snug. A happy coincidence was that the 14.5s were last years model and were heavily discounted.
Getting killed, though? In a way that you don't like? Suck it up, Gertrude.
Difference between good gear and bad. I've put 10K miles or so on my mid-'90s campy record ergopower levers without even paying attention to them. Never had to adjust, lube, maintain or even care about them, don't think I ever missed a shift. Changed the chain every year. The really low-end STI stuff is much less precise.
I believe this is almost always a shoe problem. The platform of the actual pedal should be irrelevant. I use speedplays, wich have a TINY actual pedal footprint, but completely rigid shoes distribute the pressure.
QFT. If you're not going for speed or doing a ton of hills, MTB shoes and pedals don't suck. I find most MTB shoes to be pretty hot though.
Gamertag: GWJ Rabbit | Last.fm | Twitter
"Think of it as 'grinding SO rep in the Kitchen instance.' " - Montalban
Or you can take more challenging routes (steeper inclines).
Fedaykin98 wrote:
Found a good local that's 7 blocks from my house. Holla!
http://bicyclealleyokc.com/
*Legion* wrote:
Funny- the source of my complaints is mid-'90s campy stuff. I know campy has a good reputation, and I haven't had a problem with any of their other stuff, but I, nor anyone else seems to be able to make it work perfectly.
XBox Live: PoppinfreshGWJ
LobsterMobster wrote:
Got my jersey and shorts today from campmor.
Pictures this weekend when I ride with a friend.
*Legion* wrote:
FWIW, I managed to find some lighter Sidi MTB shoes that are not quite so warm/hot. Who knows if they are still made. They are expensive though.
Xbox Live: psu13, PSN: psu_13
Finally broke down and bought my bike today. Got a good deal too. Bike commuting to start next week.
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2007/archive/pilot21
63 cm size. I was surprised it actually fit me.
Sure it was more than I wanted to spend, but since my running is waning due to shin splints, I figure I'll make my moneys worth soon enough.
I upgraded to Look Keo pedals. Got a refund on the basic shimano pedals I left behind.
Need to find a seat I like next. I'm thinking something Fizik.
xbox live: kleinetako
Bontrager is good stuff-- I'd say stick it out for a while and see what you think. There's definitely a break-in period with saddles, and no matter what seat you use, you're ass is gonna be in some pain after the first few rides-- you just have to get used to it. If you're looking for something softer for the commute, but still good for longer rides, try a Terry Liberator, or the Terry Fly for a more sport-oriented saddle. While fizik is definitely awesome, I personally wouldn't bother with the cost of one of their saddles for commuting-- they are a bit more performance oriented. Anyway, nice buy and have fun!
dhelor wrote:
Honestly? Just get a cheap mountain bike. As many of you already know, but you might not, Nos. I began cycling at about about 30lbs. over that weight.
http://flickr.com/photos/30367835@N00/115994911/in/set-72057594139249885/
I promptly lost around 170lbs. on a $350 mountain bike. I think the key in your situation is to find a good local bike shop that knows a little bit about fitting, bike fitting. Make sure you get a bike that's fit to you and comfortable. Some shops offer this as a free service. Some charge extra for it. Either way, it's worth every penny. Before you know it you might find that you've worn out that cheap mountain bike. Stick it on Craigslist and buy something that can definitely hold your new svelt self. Seriously. That would be how I would look at it if I were you. I've been there.
As for boogle... What I said about the fit. I certainly think getting new pedals will help take it to another level. Find some good shoes and figure out which style (spd, etc.) will work best for you. However, I would add that if you haven't had a bike fitting performed that would be my next move if I were you. Just to make sure the bike was dialed in right. I didn't know this when I started biking. I learned it when about 70lbs. into my weight loss I started getting knee pain. The pain actually ended up being referral pain from my back, but the solution was the same either way. Stretching, a little physical therapy and a bike fit. I would suggest skipping the physical therapy if you can by getting the bike fit done first. You'll be glad you did it. Trust me.
Then I would definitely consider going clipless. As for specific shoes? Thousands of miles in, two duathlons and 1 triathlon under my belt I still ride mountain bike shoes on SPD pedals I bought from Bike Nashbar. They're a great site for cheap pedals, stuff like that. I think my pedals were $25. The shoes were a bit more expensive, but they've lasted over half a decade. So they're worth it.
XBox Live: DSGamer GWJ | PSN: DSGamerGWJ
Commuting and exercise to start, but I'm working my way up to a 150 mile ride with co-workers next July, so a good saddle is an investment. It has to wait until the next pay period anyway, so I'll give it a chance to break in.
xbox live: kleinetako
Haven't had a 'pro' fitting but have ridden with some of the techs from our local and they said it looked fine.
*Legion* wrote:
I love my Sidi Dominators. This is probably going to be their last season though so I'll have to plunk down for another pair. They breathe great and dry quickly which is nice when making creek crossings. Plus they come in a wide size for my duck feet.
Xbox Live: LiquidmantisGWJ | PSN: LiquidmantisGWJ
Web: Mantis on the Mountain
--
My wife liked the man part monster I made. -Pharacon
I'd consider one. I was told I was fine by the bike shop employees as well, but there's an art to bike fitting. All about biomechanics, etc. Where he had me on the bike was radically different than where I had been prior to getting fit. And the change was for the better. Worth every penny.
XBox Live: DSGamer GWJ | PSN: DSGamerGWJ
Honestly, "looking fine" and being dialed in can be worlds apart. Subtle nuances in the adjustments of the bike have often made a world of difference for our customers. I would say get a pro fitting after a few long rides, once you've gotten a feel for the bike and the areas of your body that still aren't comfortable, like the base of your neck could be sore not from the constant upward angle to see ahead, but because your stem is too long and you're arms are stretched out for 50-some-odd miles. Perhaps go back to the shop you bought the bike from, they might give you a deal since you got it from them (we offer free pro fittings with a bike purchase, not sure who else does something like that).
Either way, I would strongly suggest getting the pedals before the fitting, unless a pro fit deal is ongoing at your local. Generally, your regular shoes have a thicker sole than bike shoes (especially running shoes), so they will place your feet higher on the pedal than the clipless would. This amounts to a seat that's raised even higher than necessary once you do go for the clipless pedals, and subsequently another fit session (if you want to be dialed in precisely), which may or may not cost you more (ask your lbs if their fittings are ongoing). The road pedals I would suggest are the Look Keo, or something similar (those are Wellgo, my first pedal, and not bad at all for starting out on clipless). Sure they are one-sided, but the rear almost always falls down on the spindle (always does if it's a good spindle), so you can always slide your toe right over the top and let the cleat catch the pedal and turn it forward; then you can put your weight on it and click in (and this would all be within one to two pedal strokes). Alternatively, the SPDs, are inexpensive, but you'd need mountain shoes to clip in comfortably, although you would have two sides to clip into. However, because the clip and cleat are so small, you may find yourself sliding your foot back and forth trying to hook the cleat in the pedal. If your cleats are fitted properly (something else that should be taken care of in a pro fitting, or if the shop is any good, they'll do it when you first purchase the shoes and cleats) than this might not be such a problem, though.
And Kleinetako, you might do well with a fitting also. Either way, ride your bike for a couple weeks if commuting daily or if you regularly go on 30+ mile rides, then call your lbs and set up an appointment for a fitting. Getting a new seat can be tough, because most shops won't allow returns once you install the saddle and ride it-- but how else do you find out if you like it or not?! Something I wanted to add last night was that fizik saddles are definitely great, but don't really have too much cushion in general since, like I said, they are performance oriented. But then, that may be what you're looking for!
dhelor wrote:
Sorry, double post.
dhelor wrote:
Yeah, pedals and shoes have to wait on either scholarship stipend or my birthday, so I'll be riding wild for a bit longer.
*Legion* wrote:
Same here. The buckle is totally worth it. And for the record, Sidi makes two types of shoes: an all leather version and ones with mesh inserts in places. Ask for or order the mesh ones, it really makes a difference.
I hear Adidas makes good shoes as well, but darned if I can find them anywhere nearby. As it is, Sidi is the only shoe that my heel doesn't slip in.