GWJ'er Adventures in Home Brewing
American Pale Ale (Yon Rabbit)
11 gallons - All Grain
17.7 lbs 2-row
1.5 lbs. light munich
.9 lbs 20LV Caramel
.2 lbs flaked barley
1.1 oz. Chinook 13.5AA 90 min.
1.2 oz. East Kent 6.5AA 30 min.
1 oz. Cascade steep 5 min. at end of boil
1 oz. Cascade dry hop in secondary
American Ale yeast--I prefer White Labs
I use a step mash for this, 128F, followed by 152F, then sparge at 175F.
Lup's Irish Ale (aka Brew #0):
5 gal batch - Extract
6 lbs M/ Amber DME
1/2 oz Columbus whole hops ~ 60 mins (15%AA = 7.5 AAU)
3/8 oz Columbus whole hops ~ 15 mins (15%AA = 5.625 AAU)
Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale yeast
OG : 1.05 (guesstimation - no hydrometer at time of brewing)
IBU : 37 (guesstimation)
Current status: Secondary - SG 1.015 at time of transfer
St. Carolus Honey Imperial Porter:
5 gallons/19 L - extract w/ grains
OG = 1.097 (before adding honey)
OG = 1.123 (after adding honey)
FG = 1.020 IBU=55
SRM = 44 ABV = 13.9%
13.2 lbs. amber liquid malt extract
.75 lb. chocolate malt (US)
.75 lb. Belgian Special B
3.5 lbs. light honey
21 AAU Centennial hops (60 min)
7.5 AAU Williamette hops (10 min)
1 tsp Irish moss
Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale yeast - (yeast cake from batch of previous lower gravity beer)
Champagne yeast
Steep specialty grains for 30 minutes in 1.5 gallons of 150 F. water. Strain and add the runoff to the extract and additional water for boiling.
Boil for 90 minutes
Primary fermentation should take four to five weeks at 68 F.
Once fermentation is complete, pitch two packets of rehydrated champagne yeast. Add one lb. of honey every 4-5 days and wait for fermentation to subside before racking to secondary.
Secondary fermentation (conditioning) should take approximately 6 months at 68 F.
For bottling, prime with 91 grams of corn sugar for 2.5 volumes CO2. Pitch an additional package of rehydrated champagne yeast.

Heya everybody. We seemed to have a number of people involved or interested in home brewing in a not too distant thread. After some hunting, I was even able to dig up ducki's thread - DuckiLama's Decent Brew #1.
Long story short: I brewed my first batch this past Sunday, and I am anxiously awaiting the day I get to actually drink the stuff.
For all of you who are involved in the art, I was hoping we could get some discussion going on tips and tricks, how to avoid common problems, recipes, and the like.
I think I've got this setup as a book entry under the larger GWJ Recipes grouping. If it should be filed elsewhere, admins please feel free to move, edit, etc as need be.
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
Looks pretty tasty. Have you every thought about doing a partial mash? I had a pretty limited set up back when I was brewing, but I used to do partial mashes with specialty malts in my oven. It seemed to add quite a bit more depth to my brews. Good luck man, it is a *great* hobby. I can't wait until I can get back into it.
"I like to hear people talking when they're not talking to me," I said. "It's soothing to know that I don't have to listen." -- Bill Harris describing a truism.
THis is always the hardest part. I advise starting a new batch as soon as you bottle this one. Always keep a batch fermenting and you'll have a steady stream. It sucks when you dig in the fridge only to find out you just drank your last bottle and never got around to starting a new batch.
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
I'll be looking into it at the very least. All grain brewing looks a bit intimidating at the moment, but I'm pretty sure I can handle steeping. Sounds like a good area to experiment in.
No kidding
How has your brewing been going by the way?
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
Haven't done any in a while. NEed to refrigerate what's left in the bottles and get another batch going.
Well, what I _really_ need to do is go get a "real" setup and graduate from Mr. Beer, but we're going through a bit of a storage/space alteration lately, so that's on hold for a bit.
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
My first brew is currently bottled up and ageing in my basement. I'm f*ckING DYING HERE!!
I have my equipment cleaned out and am searching for my next flavor.
I did the pre-bottling taste test on it and got so excited I took an artsy pic.

Looks awesome belt. Let us know how it turns out once it gets a little time to condition.
I'm thinking I'll be racking #0 to secondary today or tomorrow and steal a taste
It's still on the cloudy side, which I'm hoping settles out once it's done.
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
Well, I went ahead and made a batch yesterday. I completely ignored any recipe or "normal" directions, so I hope it turns out.
It's a West Coast Pale Ale with a light amber UME, instead of just letting it steep in the just boiled water, I returned that to a boil and let it go for about 10-20 minutes, then added a can of blackberries just for giggles.
It smelled very interesting, and tasted like it would be a fun beer, now I just have to wait a few weeks to find out for real.
The waaaaaaaaiting is the haaaaaarrrdesssssst part!
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
Um, how long do you have to wait?
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It takes about a week for a majority of the fermenting to take place. Then you usually let it sit for a week or two more before you put it into bottles. Finally, you let the bottles sit for at least a week or two before drinking the stuff down. All that sitting around is called "conditioning", and allows time for yeast to settle out, lets the flavors to mature, and time for carbonation to build in the bottles. So you're looking at about a month from the time you start to the time you drink.
Of course, you can drink it whenever you want, but it's suppose to get better with time.
I just transfered my batch to secondary the other night. Gravity sample sitting at 1.015 and tasted great.
Sounds interesting. Blackberries would make a great brew me thinks. The waiting it soo hard though. I was ready to just start pouring glasses after tasting my gravity sample
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
Just a quick question tho...
Once I fermented for 7 days, I added the melted sugar/water mix and moved it to a bottling bucket. Then I just bottled up 24 22oz bottles. The recipe I used said to leave them bottled for at least 21 days, with better results going 2 additional weeks.
The question for you veteran brewers, apparently not as quick as I thought, did I f*ck up by not waiting a week before bottling?
I'm confused because you first say you fermented 7 days and then say you didn't not wait a week before bottling.
If you waited a week before priming/bottling you're fine. If you bottled as soon as you made the batch you're screwed.
Every brew and brewer is different, I frement in a primary carboy (6 gallons to minimize blowoff) for two-three weeks and then rack the brew into a secondary carboy (5 gallon) to ferment an additional two-thre weeks. I bottle condition for a two weeks to a month. If it's a first time recipe, I'll keep a 6 pack of bottles aside and let them sit for at least four months. I'll drink the rest of the batch to my hearts content but after 4 months I'll have two a month up to the six month mark to see when the better flavor (for me) for that particular recipe is.
You'll acquire much gear as well.
Do you ever walk alone like a drifter in the dark?
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Steam: Bordone
I think I'm ok then. I actually thought they were saying "ferment for a week, wait one more week, then bottle". I femented for a week, then transfered to a secondary carboy, and bottled it out of that one immediately.
I usually ferment for 1 week, then if it looks like things have settled down(no more busy little yeast colonies on the surface), I'll prime and bottle, then let them sit in the bottles for a week, then in the fridge they go. I'll have one as soon as the bottle is really cold, but they really taste much better after a 3rd week of sitting(in the fridge). After 4 weeks, it's usually markedly better, as the flavors have time to mellow out.
Yep. My last batch was Shiner/Killian's good at 2 weeks + a day in the fridge, but once it hit 1 week in the bottle plus another week in the fridge, it was heavenly. After 2+ more weeks, it was so good I wished I had made 2 batches.
So true, but I find that all the beers I've made(cider, too) really hit their best flavor about 1 month after Brew Day. Some do take a lot longer to get really really good though. I've got a couple of recipes that say to let them bottle condition for 2+ months. I need more bottles if I'm going to tie a whole batch up for a quarter.
So, Mex, a minimum of 2 weeks from Brew Day. Minimum.
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
You want to give it enough time to settle after most the fermention has taken place. Usually a week, sometimes more. You just don't want to arbitrarily go to bottles after X number of days when you still have active fermentation.
Did you have a pretty strong fermentation period, belt? The only thing that scares me about bottling early is exploding bottles.
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
I hope it was ok. my fermenter has a little air filter/bubbling thing on the top, and it said that the fermenting would take 3-7 days (whenever it stopped bubbling was when it was done).
It stopped bubbling after 3 days but, I left it in the fermenter for the full 7. The bottles have been sitting in my cellar for about a week and a half now, no explosions yet!
The only way you can really be sure your heavy fermentation is completed is to take gravity readings of the wort. I've seen brews that have LOOKED calm and tired suddenly kick up into an active 2nd or even 3rd fermentation.
If your gravity reading doesn't make sense when compared to the sugars you put into the boil, then you need to wait until it does before bottling.
Are you gettin' there Rabbit, are you gettin' there now?
Yes Lord, Lord, I'm gettin' there now.
To follow up FeralPug, invest $15 in a hydrometer. Taking gravity readings will remove the guesswork as to when your fermentation is done.
I recently moved, so I have not had a brew day in about 2 months, and my last batch is all but gone
I'm going to start a hefeweisen soon, though, and then get going on a 12.9% ABV porter recipe that I came across.
Plan to be spontaneous... tomorrow
Xbox Live: DoubleFour | PSN: DoubleFour
That's some serious sounding porter. Can't wait to hear how that one turns out. Is there any trick to higher OG beers? Or is it just more malt & yeast per vol of water?
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
WineGlass, do you think you could post that Porter recipe. When I get going again I want to start with a quickie, like brown ale or a bitter, and then brew up an imperial stout or a heavy porter. Damn, I can't wait!
"I like to hear people talking when they're not talking to me," I said. "It's soothing to know that I don't have to listen." -- Bill Harris describing a truism.
Let me second the hydrometer recomendation. It makes this much, much easier. Plus, when you sample with it, you can taste what you've made so far!
More yeast will not increase your alchohol percentage, only speed up the time between pitching and full fermentation. Generally, you want to start active fermentation as soon as you possibly can as this is the most dangerous time in terms of infection. I recommend making or buying a wort chiller so you can cool your wort quickly. I made a copper chiller that can cool 5 gallons of boiling water to room temperature in 15 minutes. They're easy to make or buy, and cheap as well.
There are a few ways to increase your alchohol percentage:
1. The more sugar you have, the more stuff the yeast can eat, the more waste (alchohol, CO2) the yeast can produce. One of the simpler ways to increase your alchohol is to increase your sugars.
2. Some yeast strains can tolerate a higher percentage of alchohol. Champagne yeast is one strain that can drive your percentage up to the 15% mark (sometimes higher). So if you want a high gravity IPA, pitch a good Ale yeast so you can get the proper ale esters going, and pitch Champagne yeast after the ale yeast slows down. If you have enough sugars in there you can push your IPA to a solid 15% alchohol. You don't want to use only Champagne yeast as the finished brew will lack the complex flavors that a good ale should have.
White Labs has a yeast that will theoretically do 25%. I used it and got it to about 19%. It's akin to a Thoroughbred race horse: difficult to use, but if you really know what you're doing it can outperform any other breed.
The higher the alchohol the longer you'll want to let it sit. Anything above 12% you can treat like wine: ferment it for 6 months and cellar it for at least a year. I've got a mead that's been in a fermenter for a full year right now. It's about 14%. I'll bottle it soon and let it sit in the bottles for at least another 6 months.
Are you gettin' there Rabbit, are you gettin' there now?
Yes Lord, Lord, I'm gettin' there now.
I may cancel my subscription to Brew and just call you from now on if you keep posts like that up.
I make yeast starters but as you say to mainly cut down on infection, although like any additional step in brewing, is one more step that can lead to infection. I do see a slightly higher tick in my ABV readings but nothing like a full percentage point.
Most of all it's a fun way to dirty up the kitchen a few days before brew day.
Do you ever walk alone like a drifter in the dark?
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Steam: Bordone
Thanks for the info, Feral. Never even thought about using multiple yeasts in stages. Brilliant. So to reiterate, you use a yeast with a flavor profile you like, then use another yeast to boost alchohol levels - preferably one that doesn't have as pronounced flavors? I think I'll wait a while to give this a shot, but it sounds like it would be a real fun experiment to try.
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
Here's the porter recipe I referred to earlier. I can't recall where I pulled it from now. You guys with more experience, let me know what you think of it:
I was able to do my hefeweizen today, so it's sitting in my primary as I type. I'm going to run by the local homebrew shop this week and pick up an IPA or Brown kit, I think, and get that going next weekend.
For now, I'm going to sit down and enjoy a Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar, my abosolute favorite beer evar!
Plan to be spontaneous... tomorrow
Xbox Live: DoubleFour | PSN: DoubleFour
Wow, that looks great, Wine. I went ahead and added it to the "book". Any idea how you're suppose to add the honey to the brew? I wouldn't know if to boil it, or stir it into the fermenter, or just pour it in.
"Screw the speed of light, fan-boy rage is my new gold standard for measuring velocity." - Dr. J
"Lupus with a crowbar is the meaning of life itself." - Certis
I've used honey in cider before instead of normal sugar. Just added it to the wort while hot and let it dissolve. At least, that's how I did it. Turned out to be a very very very dry cider.
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
Well, the hefeweizen hit FG really quickly, in like 4 days (OG: 1.048, FG: 1.010). Fermented violently for a couple of those and was bottled this last weekend. I added some blackberry extract the last half of the batch in my bottling bucket to change things up.
I immediately turned around and brewed up an American brown ale that's sitting in my primary right now. I also ran down to the local homebrew shop (Home Fermenter Supply in Eugene, OR... Great guy runs the place) for a hazelnut extract to be added at bottling time.
So, between the hefeweizen/blackberry hefeweizen conditioning in bottles and the brown ale sitting in my primary fermenter, I've got about 10 gallons of beer in my apartment that I can't drink yet
So, I stopped at the market tonight to grab 22oz bottles of Stone's Arrogant Bastard Ale, Rogue Dead Guy Ale, and Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar.
Plan to be spontaneous... tomorrow
Xbox Live: DoubleFour | PSN: DoubleFour
Brewed a special equinox batch last night, making use of some advice from the local Homebrew Headquarters guys.
1 can : Mr. Beer's Bewitched Red Ale
1 lbs : Amber Malt Extract(powder, my first time)
I actually boiled all the wort for a full 15 minutes(contrary to the default Mr. Beer directions).
I put the whole pot in an icebath (contrary to the default blahblahblah).
I had refrigerated 1.5 gallons of water in the morning, so it had cooled for over 12 hours.
The ice bath brought the wort down to about 98F and mixing the wort with the cold water brought it almost immediately to just above 65F. Hopefully I actually got a good cold break.
Pitched at about 70F and this morning, contrary to what I normally have, I had about a half inch of foamy, yeasty, goodness. Wrapped it(the minikeg) in a damp towel this morning to combat room temp in my house(about 78-80).
One thing: I actually got a hydrometer and tried to use it. Measured all 3 scales and recorded them, then checked the thermostat(78F) and recorded that so I could do the math to get the "real" SG, but on rereading the direction in both the Bible(Papazian) and my hydrometer instructions, it's unclear whether I'm supposed to adjust the SG based on air temp or wort temp. Air was 78F, but wort was more like 68-70F.
Which is it? Not that I really need to know before next weekend, but I'd like to predict my final gravity and ABV if I can.
Anyway, really looking forward to this batch, I'm sure it'll be my best yet.
Steam: duckilama
T.Rex is more impressive than a cockroach, but that doesn't mean it aged better. - CheezePavillion
Hope it turns out well for you, Ducki. I've always been under the impression that it is the liquid temperature that you base your adjustment on with the hydrometer.
My hazelnut brown is screwed, totally oxidized and tastes like cardboard. I really screwed it up by not cooling it enough to pitch the yeast when I added it to my primary. I had really sloshed it around, aeriating it well, and had to let it sit for a long time to get it around 80 degrees. 5 gallons of beer down the drain
So, to mourn the loss of my brown ale, I turned right around and made an oatmeal stout that's been conditioning in bottles for about 2 weeks now and is smoothing out really good. I really like this style of beer. The oatmeal gives it a really silky character that just feels good in the mouth.
Last night I bottled an american pale ale that I dry hopped with Kent Golding hops. I think this was, technique wise, my best brew yet out of about 6 batches. It tasted good at bottling time, and I am really hoping it turns out well.
This last weekend, my girlfriend and I made the trip over to Newport, OR to stay at the Rogue Brewery's Bed & Beer, drink some great Rogue beers, and visit the brewery. Chocolate Stout and Hazelnut Brown rule! It turned out to be a great trip and very beer-spirational.
I'm trying to decide what to make next. I'm thinking I may take another crack at the brown ale, or try something really "big" (like a barleywine).
Plan to be spontaneous... tomorrow
Xbox Live: DoubleFour | PSN: DoubleFour